Herron Custom Paint Work in Progress Herron Custom Paint September 25, 2017   

Photos of works in progress

Back
This is Steve's 48 chevy. This car is currently not here but you can see what we have done to it so far. It has been channelled, the hood chopped and rear fenders moved out 4 inches and welded on.  
For now all we are doing is dropping the body down and channeling it 2" over the frame and putting floors in it. A chop top is possibly happening in the future. 

Steve and his buddies have got the front and rear suspension mocked up so we can build the body to the modified frame.

 
It has a little rust in the cowl. 
They had fit and tacked the new firewall in place. We finished welding that in for him. 
The cowl rust has been repaired. 
The front cowl body mount is at the hieght Steve wants. From there back it is to drop down until the rear of the car is 2 inches lower. This floor will come out. 
The floors will all be replaced and the floor braces and tranny hump will be modified for the body drop. 
The floor pans are being removed. The floor braces are still in for now. 
This will be the new look. The rear is now 2 inches lower than it was. Now we will jig the body up to hold it in place and start rebuilding the floors. 
This shows how much we will be lowering the rear body. 
Some braces are welded in to keep the body in the right place. 
The left front floor brace is in good shape and will be cleaned up and reused. The lower A-pillar section has been removed to access the inner rocker structure. It will get welded back on later. 
The rocker panels will be the first to go in since the floor braces all weld to them. The left one has been removed. 
The lower section of the door post was removed. The only way to rebuild the inner rocker structure was to cut this piece out and then weld it back in once the rocker is installed. 
The rear door jam rust has been removed along with the inner 1/4 structure. This will all be rebuilt. 
Fitting the left rocker. 
Rebuilding the rear door jam section on the left side.  
Rebuilding the left rear lower and inner 1/4 structure. 
The left rocker is welded on in the front. The inner structure was rebuilt and the outer post section that was removed has been welded back in place. 
The left rocker has been welded on and its time to move to the right side. 
The rusty right inner 1/4 structure has been removed. This will have to be rebuilt after the rocker goes on. 
Once the right rocker is in place and welded on the 1/4 inner and outer will be rebuilt. 
The right rocker has been removed and the A-pilar section cut off and saved to be welded back on later.  
Fitting the right rocker. 
The right rocker came in pieces and the outer part  was twisted so we had to split it and take the twist out and weld it back.  
We had new replacement outer floor braces but since we are doing a body drop they have to all be modified. The outer body will be 2 inches lower than before so the braces had to be reshaped . 
All four outer floor braces have been reshaped and welded up. they are getting sprayed with epoxy on the inside. Once in the car the outer part will be under the rocker so this has to be done now.  
Once  the right rocker was on the right dog leg was built.  
The outer floor braces have been mounted in place with clams and screws and body bolts. Before welding the tranny hump has to be raised.  
Raising the tranny hump at the second floor brace. 
The very front floor braces have been cleaned up and sprayed with epoxy. the toe boards are getting fitted. 
The floor braces have been modified to fit the body drop and the tranny hump has been raised. they have been welded up and sprayed with epoxy.  
The front toe boards  floor sections are getting fit and tacked in place. the floor sections had to be bent and reshaped on the outer sides because now the body is 2 inches lower than it used to be. We set it up for a 1/2 " thick rubber bodymount. 
The toe boards, front floor section and front floor braces have all been welded in. Since the floors were bent down on the outer edge the sill plate roll had to be modified and a small floor section will have to be built at the pillar. 
The rear floor crossmember has been trimmed and blasted. the pinhole rust will be fixed in it before its fit back into the car. 

A look at the floors so far from the rear.

 
The middle floor sections have been welded in. 
The middle floor sections have been reshaped and fit. 
The left rear inner 1/4 to rocker structure has been rebuilt. 
The inner 1/4 to rocker structure has been rebuilt on the right side. 
The inner 1/4 structure section that was removed has been repaired and welded back in on the right side. 
The left inner 1/4 structure that was removed to rebuild the inner structure has been rebuilt and welded back in place. 
The rear floor pans have been reshaped and welded in. 
The tranny hump over the rear floor pans has been built and welded in. 
Building the front part of the tranny hump. 
The center floor section tranny hump has been built and welded in. 
Building the tranny humps to fit the new floors. 

The front part of the tranny hump. The floors still  got a little welding here and there and alot of grinding. Once the body is off the frame there is a little welding and grinding to do undernieth the car.

 
The center bodymount to floor has been boxed and welded in. 
This small rust spot on the right lower cowl will be cut out and rebuilt. 
Building the front tranny hump. For now this piece will just be screwed in place once built. It will get welded in later once all the mechanical stuff has been mocked up. 
The front tranny hump. The floors are almost done except for the rear wheeltubs and trunk floor. 
Thr front tranny hump piece had been built and the welds ground. This piece will just be screwed in for now. Once all the mechanical stuff is lined out it will get welded in place.  
Most of the wiring goes through the firewall and plugs in behind the dash. The heater box and the firewall pad needs to come out so we can weld up here. So its time to remove a dash so we can get to those things to remove all these things.  
Building the front lip on the tranny hump. This piece will not get welded into the floor until all the mechanical stuff has been mocked up. 
There it is. Josh you done one hell of a job on this. This looks really nice! 

There was alot of modifications to the parts we had because of the 4" body drop. It all came out great though.

 
The floors are done back to the rear suspension. 
All the welds have been ground on the floors. 
The rear is just about 1 inch higher than the front. Its got just the right rake to it. This is going to look good.  
Its back on the ground! 
Thats cool! The body has been dropped alot when you compare it to the pictures before we started.  
Some of the front clip parts and some of the extra parts that we can use to rebuild the bad spots in the original parts.  

The first step is to take this all apart and get the pieces cleaned up and rebuilt so we can make them fit the car.

 
We got the front clip here and some parts from another front clip. we got to make this all fit with the lowered body so Steve can finish mocking up the drivetrain.  
The front clip has been completely taken apart. All this old undercoat inside the fenders will have to be melted out.  
The undercoat has to be melted out of the inner fenders too.  
Once the undercoat has been melted away the inside of the fenders get stripped. The less blasting we have to do on the fenders the better.  
A torch and wired brush is the best way to remove the old undercoat. You just want to get it hot enough to release.  
Even more front clip pieces have been sandblasted.  
While stripping the fenders we ran into some old repairs. These will be all cut out and redone.  
The outside of both fenders have been stripped.  
More front clip pieces have been sandblasted. There are alot of pieces to this front clip.  
More of the front clip pieces have been sandblasted.  
Some of the front clip pieces have been sandblasted. 
The inside of the fenders have been stripped. There will be some light blasting in here but not enough to warp them.  
Both fenders have the same old repairs. This stuff was brassed in. That means it was likely done before the mig welder came along. Late 60's or early 70's maybe??? 
More of the sandblasted front clip parts have been sprayed with epoxy. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the sandblasted parts.  
The rust has been cut out of the right fender. It has been styripped and blasted. 
The new piece has been welded in.  
Rebuilding the inner fender splash shields pieces. Here we have welded up the staple holes from the original felt seals.  
This part of the front inner side splash shield has been cut away with a torch. A new piece will be made and welded in.  
The rust has been cut out of the left fender. It has been stripped and blasted. 
Rebuilding the inner fenders. This part will be cut off and welded onto the other piece. The old undercoat has to be melted away first.  
This part of the inner fender will have to be rebuilt also.  
Rebuilding the inner fenders.  
We have some spare inner fender pieces. Whats bad on one is good on the other so we are making a good set of two out of the four we have.  
The door bubbles have been stripped and are ready to be blasted.  
The fenders have been epoxied inside and out. 
The fenders have been epoxied inside and out. 
Rebuilding the back of the left fender. 
The inner fender pieces and front splash pan are getting hammer and dolly work done to them. Here we are doing some heat shrinking on the front splash pan.  

Now its time to start rebuilding the rusted out areas on the fenders.

 
Rebuilding the fenders. 
Rebuilding the fenders. 
Josh is grinding welds on the repairs on the inner fenders.  
A new tab was built and welded on to the back of this fender.  
The blaster cleans the welds on the rust repairs really good. Now we will put a skim coat of fiberglass body filler over the welded areas.  
The rust has been welded up on the left fender. the welds have been sanblasted and the left fender has been sanded down.  
The rust has been welded up on the right fender. The welds has been sandblasted and the entire fender has been sanded down. 
The welds on the inner fender pieces have been sandblasted. The pieces have been hammered and dollied. The door bubbles have been blasted. All the pieces sanded back down and are ready to epoxy again.  
The fiberglass filler skim coat has been put over the welded areas. It was sanded down and now the fenders can be epoxied again.  
The fenders and front splash pan have been sprayed with epoxy.  
The inner fender pieces and door bubbles have been epoxied.  
We are at a bit of a standstill for now. We need the radiator that wil be used and the other hood hinge and there are a few other issues to be gone over with Steve.  
This all has to be fit together so we can modify where needed. The big engine will require alot more room under the hood.  
This radiator support we have is not right for this car. We will likely custom build one anyway. This car will have a big V8 and a larger radiator than it did in 1948.  
Now its time to start mocking up the front clip.  
We got a different radiator support and lower valance panel and have sandblasted them.  
The radiator support and valance have been sandblasted. 
The splash pan has been repaired. 
The right door has been taken apart and stripped.  
One of the cagenuts in the side of the support was gone. that is getting repaired.  
I will be taking the upper tie bar from the old radiator supposrt and welding it on the support we are using.  
The left door has been taken apart and stripped. 
Once the tie bar is welded in place I will repair the sides. the holes where the radiator mounted are all ripped out. 
The outer door frame has been blasted and both doors are now ready for epoxy.  
The inside of both doors have been sandblasted. there is alot of pinhole rust in the bottom inner door structure. That was expected.  
The door hinges, hood hinges, some small bracket pieces and the welds on the radiator support have all been sandblasted.  
The radiator support has been repaired. Now its ready to have the tie bar and welded areas sandblasted.  
The welds on the splash pan have been sandblasted. 
The doors are in epoxy. 
Epoxy on the door hinges, hood hinges, small bracket pieces and radiator support.  
Two coats of epoxy has been sprayed on the doors inside and out.  
Before installing the rocker extensions I am welding up all the seams.  
The doors have been fit back on the car. Now the door bubbles have to be fit so the rocker extensions can be welded on.  
The pivot holes in the hinges are too small for the new collared hood bolts so they will have to be drilled out.  
There is no radiator support crossmember in the frame so i have to support the front clip in the right location to build that crossmember.  
Since the bottom 1/4 inch is getting cut off the rocker extensions they will have to be boxed back in on the bottom side.  
The new rocker extensions are too tall. they will have to be trimmed so the fenders fit and so they will be even with the bottonm of the rocker.  
There was a siezed up bolt in the bottom of the hood. It broke so I will have to drill it out.  
The threads in the hood are course and the threads on the collared bolts are fine so its either get different bolts which will be no easy task since they are a special bolt or rethread the hood. I choose to rethread the hood.  
While fitting the front clip the left fender edge needed a little reshaping.  
I have two sets of hood hinges. All have quite a bit of wear but hey they are over 60 years old. I chose the best set but the rivits are bad so they will need to be tightened up and welded.  
The hood hinge rivits have been tighteded up and welded on the back side. The hinges are in good shape now.  
These will be the sides of the radiator support crossmember.  
The radiator support crossmember side pieces have been welded up and are ready to fit in place.  
The crossmember has been fit and tacked in place. The front clip can now be removed and the radiator support crossmember can be welded in . 
Drilling the hood  hinges so the collared bolts will fit.  
Building the radiator support crossmember. It will have to twist on the ends like a lawn mower blade in order to fit the frame right.  
The radiator support crossmember has been built.  
 The frame horns point down at and angle but the support sits level so the bottom of the crossmember had to have a twist built into it.  
Now that the crossmember is built the front clip can be fit back on the car. 
The next step will be cutting the hood in half and making it shorter. Its way too tall in the front. The car has been channeled 3 inches and the top is going to be chopped so this tall hood will be way out of place.  
The entore front clip has been fit back on the car.  
This all has to be fit together and bolted in place to chop the hood.  
The hood has been measured and marked to cut 4 inches out of the front.  
The hood has been cut. There is no going back now. I took 4 inches out of the front. Whith it down inside the bottom like this its a 5 inch drop up front.  
This is a rough idea of what the hood will look like with a 4 inch drop in the front.  
This is a rough idea of what the hood will look like with a 5 inch drop in the front. Decision time????????? 

The top of the hood has been removed.

 
The hood will be chopped 4 inches.  
The first step was to seperate the two hood halfs. As the hood goes down it will get wider. I have stripped the inside of the two hood halves.  
The outside of both upper hood halves has been stripped too. As the hood goes down it will also have to go back so the outer corner will line up. The center front  will come in. This will put the back of the hood over the top of the cowl. The back will be trimmed off. 
The rear hood brace has to be split so it can be narrowed. This will allow the rear hood angle to be right with the cowl. As the front of the hood goes down the back comes up. The pivot point is the brace. Modify the brace so the hood fits the cowl.  
One side of the rear brace has been reshaped and lowered. This shows the difference before and after. Once fitting the two rear brace halves will be welded together.  
The roll of the hood will be different so the rear hood brace will be modified.It has to go down but it can't because it will hit the cowl. I have cut the sides so it can be reshaped. It will have to be split lengthways and narrowed as well.  
The hood sides have been fit. Everything will get screwed in place and checked before we just take off welding. Welding this will take some care. It is not easy to weld big flat panels like this without warping the heck out of them.  
The rear hood brace center was fit and welded. The hood of course got wider in the back so a center filler strip was made and fit in place.  
Its ready to weld the sides and top. Once that part is welded an inner brace will be tacked in up front and the nose cut off. The nose will have to be lengthened about 2 inches.  
We towels are put on each side of the center hood welds. It has been braced up from the bottom. I slowly tack weld and grind keeping the heat down as much as possible. If all goes well when finished it will not have much warping at all.  
The back half of the hood has been chopped and welded. The rear brace has been tacked in place. once the hood can be removed I will finish the welding undernieth.  
The next step will be cutting the nose off and lengthening and reshaping it to fit. This hood will have been cut into 8 pieces to do this. There is alot more to it that just cutting and lowereing.  
It all welded up nice so far. Now moving on to the front of the hood.  
The lower pieces that were cut off in the beginning will have to roll way in now. 
Once the hood can be raised and the bottom of it worked on I can reshape the corners of the radiator support so it will have clearance when the hood is closed. The sides roll in alot more now with the hood lower. 
The front cut off. 
The next step was to cut the entire front nose off so it can be lengthened a couple inches and reshaped.  
The side pieces are getting fitted and tacked in place.  
The center point has been reshaped and is ready to be tacked in place.  
The lower front part of the hood haws been reshaped and all the pieces tacked in place. Now the upper sections can be fit and tacked in place.  
Now its time to start fitting the bottom nose pieces.  
The upper pieces are getting fit.  
Once these pieces are tacked in place I will have to make the pieces to go where the hood was lengthened.  
The filler pieces have been made and are getting tacked in place. Once this is doewn it can all be welded up. 

As the hood came down it got wider in the back. This bar will go undernieth. We want the bottom of the hood to look good too.

 
I am going to tack the rear brace some more. Then trim the back to fit the cowl and then I should be able to cut it loose and open it up.  
I still have to trim the back of the hood to fit the cowl. I got to finishe welding the rear inner brace. I got to weld in the front nose latch plate ans finish welding the lips undernieth.  
The outside of the hood has been chopped 4 inches. I still have some work to do on the bottom of the hood yet.  
There it is for now.  
Its looks alot different if the look at the before pictures.  
The center bar is getting tacked in place. once the hood is removed the finish welding will be done undernieth. 
The hood needs to be held strait while tacking this bar in place.  
Using a strait edge to check the top of the hood before welding the support bar in all the way.  

I have welded the inner hood hinge braces to the hood and welded up the outer holes and rivits. the sides have been stripped.

 
Any time you weld long flat panels together you are going to get some warpage. Here is a shot showing where i used the torch to heat shrink the metal. this stiffens it back up and gets rid of the oil can effect.  
Found some pinhole rust in one side. Its been cut out and will be repaired. 
The hood has been removed. The inner sides stripped and I am finishing up the welding on the bottom.  
This all needs welded up. the side emblems are not going back on. I am going to weld the rivits that hold the inner hood hinge brace to the hood. 
After the blaster got the welds super clean i put Fiberglass body filler over all the welded areas. 
All the welding is done. I have carefully sandblasted the welds to get them really clean. Youi got to hold the blaster way back and hit it at a very sharp angle on low air pressure to do this.  
3M panel adhesive has been put over all the weld seams on the bottom of the hood. This will all be bodyworked later but we need to make sure there will be no flexing at the weld overlap points. .  
While I was here I decided to go on ahead and rough in the bodywork on the top of the hood.  
I am not going to finish it out and prime it yet. I am just going to get it real close and then epoxy it for now.  
Thats got the bodywork roughed in pretty good. I am going to epoxy the hood and the finish bodywork will likely be done with the hood on the car so it lines up with the doors, fenders and cowl right.  
I have sanded the panel adhesive on the bottom of the hood and sprayed epoxy on the top and bottom of the hood.  
I have sanded the epoxy on the bottom of the hood so it can be bodyworked.  
The entire bottom of this hood will need bodyworked to hide all the weld seams.  
This was like sanding the inside of an egg. No flat areas so air tools were not an option. this all had to be done by hand. Its going to look nice when its finished. The weld seams will be gone.  
Time for some epoxy and primer. 
The bottom of the hood has been bodyworked. 
Bodywork on the bottom of the hood. 
I have sprayed epoxy over the bodywork on the bottom of the hood. Once this dries for an hour it can be primed.  
The bottom of the hood has been primed.  
This will need blocked and reprimed of course before it will be ready to sand for paint.  
Weld seams are gone! 
The hood is back on the car. It has had 4 inches chopped out of it. 
 
 
 
 
Front corner piece fabbed up to box in rocker extensions. 
The bottom of the right front rocker extension has been boxed in.  
Boxing in the bottom of the front rocker extensions. 
The bottom of the left front rocker extension has been boxed in. 
I need to move the car around a bit so i can work on the rear fender / rocker extensions. Thought a picture of it on the ground with the hood chop would be cool. 
We got two more of these rocker extensions for the widened rear fenders. I am going to flip them so the right will be on the left and vise versa. I have welded up the seams in them first.  
The rocker extension on the right rear fender has been fit and welded in place.  
The rocker extension on the left rear fender has been fit and welded in place. They will have to be capped and the back cut off and shaped to fit the fender inner and outer.  
The left rear extension to fender inner has been fabbed up and welded in place.  
The bottom of the left rear fender rocker extension welded up. 
The top of the left rear fender rocker extension has been capped. Once the other side is to this point I can start making the curved radious pieces. You'll see. 
The rear of the rt rear fender to rocker extension has been shapped and inner pieces made and welded in place.  
The right rear fender to rocker extension has been capped.  


© 2017 Herron Custom Paint