Herron Custom Paint Work in Progress Herron Custom Paint November 18, 2017   

Photos of works in progress

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This 69 GTX is a 440 car owned by its original buyer still. I was told it had 74,000 miles. We will be doing a complete restoration on it. The mechanical work will be handled by a friend of the owner. 
 
This car is in great shape. there is probably not a nicer one out there unrestored unless its one that was bought and tucked away and never drove at all.  
Its nice to get one in that will not require months of rust repair and fabrication work. 
As you can see it does not have the major rust issues that most old Mopars have 
The stripes were measured and tons of noted taken. Teardown has begun with tons of reference pics being taken for reassembly purposes. I will not post all those. The first step is teardown and removal of trim and chrome so it can be sent of to get reworked if needed cause that takes a long time to get back. 
Another broken piece on the dash. I am thinking we can repair this and repaint. Finding one of these original pieces not aftermarket would be difficult and its probably gonna be in the same shape or worse. 
This is part of the dash here. Not sure if the Interior guy can repair this of if this will need replaced. 
Its showing a little rust under the battery tray but not bad. 
I have a couple hundered reference  pictures already in the file for this car to use during reassembly. Here are a few of the things we came across in taking it apart. This is a broken mount on the grill but we can repair this. 
Removing parts and wiring and such from the engine compartment. I got tons of pics so it can go back the way it was. We mark and bag all the bolts and fasteners. Teardown is a process but if you do it right it saves hours and hours when it is time for reassembly. 
Some mice chewed on this wire. 
The dash is out. Now all the stuff behind the dash has to be removed. 
The engine bay is just about tore down. the brake lines, wiring, booster, steering, hoses etc have been removed. The fuel lines still have to come out. 
The dash and firewall inside have been taken apart.  
All this stuff is now ready to be put in storage. Then more teardown on the car. 
Carefully removing the body side trim. We are trying not to desroy these plastic clips and of course we do not want to bend the mouldings. 
Right 1/4 glass broken roller wheels. These will need replaced. Its the unexpected things like this that most folks don't consider in a full restoration but without replacing these the 1/4 windows are not going work properly. 
Taking the doors apart. The reason the mirror does not work on drivers door is the mount tabs are broke. This is pop metal so welding is out but panel adhesive might do the trick. 
Sorry the pic is bad but this is the lower window track in the door. its broke off from its mounting bracket. this can be welded back together. 

Right door taken apart

 
Left door taken apart. 
The left door has been taken completely apart. 
Right door taken apart 
The torshon bars and a few fasteners are all that's left to come out in here. Yea I know its not spelled right. HaHa. 
Can't tear one down much more than this. the doors and trunk lid are next to come off and then its time to start removing paint.  
The front and rear suspension has been removed.  
The back glass trim clips have been removed and the glue cleaned out of the glass channel so the opening can be blasted.  
The windshield trim clips have been removed and the glue cleaned out of the glass channel. This has to be done before it can be sandblasted in here. the blaster don't gut through that glue very well.  
glass channel cleaned up to blast 
Glass channel cleaned up to blast 
Stripping the paint off the roof.  
Stripping paint off the right 1/4 panel.  
Its gonna need lower 1/4 sections which we knew already.  
Stripping the rocker. a lot of this will be sandblasted too but its less blasting to strip what we can in areas like this.  
small rust holes poking through the bottom og the right 1/4 panel. At this point it looks like lower  rear 1/4 sections on both sides and a complete trunk floor with the trunk drop offs both sides. Not bad for a car this old at all.  
Stripping paint off the right 1/4 
The lower part of the outer wheeltub is going to need repaired too. We will likely make that piece. I hate to buy an entire outer tub to use the lower 4 inches.  
The right door has been stripped on the outside and most of the trunk is stripped but that does not show in this picture. Its so dusty in the shop that this is a bad picture. I will get a better one later. 
The right side of the car stripped. 
decklid, roof and rear filler between back glass and deck lid have been stripped.  
Left 1/4 stripped and working on the left door. 
The deck lid or trunk lid  in the lower right corner you can see holes that were drilled and a slide hammer used to pull dents way back in the day. The trunk lid is the only piece that was not original paint. 
Left rocker stripped.  
Left door stripped. 
This is the right rear corner of the trunklid. the holes are from slide hammer repair back before nail guns were invented. The small holes are pinhole rust so this corner gets cut out and replaced.  
Rust around the bottom of the back glass opening on the right side. This should sandblast up fine and not need cut out. 
Rust around the lower back glass opening. This is why its always a good idea to remove glass. This hopefully will blast up fine and not need cutting out and replacing.  

Moisture got under the vinyl top and caused these rust pits. Wil know more about this after its sandblasted but will likely just fill the pits with 3M panel adhesive.

 
The right 1/4 is showing pinhole rust in the bottom in front of the tire. new rear 1/4 sections along with a complete trunk floor and right and left trunk floor extensions have been ordered. This will be cut out and we will make the piece to go here.  
Pinhole rust showing in the lower Left 1/4 panel this in in front of the tire at the wheeltub. This will be cut out and we will make a new piece for this. The lower rear 1/4 sections both sides have been ordered new.  
The rust in the back part of the left 1/4 is going up a little higher than I had hoped. New lower 1/4 sections are ordered. We may have to make a small piece to go above it. 
Old seamsealer has cracks in it which allows moisture under it. if you do not remove it this rust under here stays and in a few years becomes a huge issue. I take all the old sealer out and this drip channel will be sandblasted. Its attention to detail that set us apart.  
Removing the seamsealer in the roof drip rail channels. most places skip this step and just put a thin coat of sealer over the original. Well I don't do it that way and you can see why. Rust under the sealer.  
The cowl panel has been stripped. the body is real close to getting some sandblasting done now.  
Pulling dents in trunklid. 
One of the bolts broke off in the hood that hold the safety latch. This will have to be drilled and retapped. 
Cutting that right rear corner out of the trunklid where is had the old repair done. Pinhole rust on the outside and this is what it looks like on the inside. Rust always comes from the inside out so small holes are usually a bigger problem that it seems.  
Drilling the broken bolt out of the hood.  
The lower inner lip on the trunk lid is rusty. this will all be cut apart and the skin separated from the shell. Then all sides will be blasted and put back together and a new inner lip made.  
Once the trunk rust is repaired a new inner lip will be made and put back.  
Cutting the inner lip off the trunk skin so the outer skin and shell can be separated.  
Now that the trunk skin and shell are separated this can all be sandblasted. 
Pulling dents on the cowl left side. 
Pulling dents in the roof.  
Pulling dents in the right 1/4. 
Pulling dents in the left 1/4. 
Pulling dents in the left 1/4. 
Pulling dents in the right 1/4. 
Pulling dents on the cowl right side. 
Pulling dents in the left 1/4. 
Pulling out a crease in the right door.  
Pulling dents in the left 1/4. I think  these small dents and dings are from shopping carts.  
The right door has been removed. now that old seamsealer on the post can be removed.  
The left door has been removed. Now that old seamsealer on the post can be removed.  
We are going to sandblast the hood iner structure but if sand hits the upper skin it will warp the hood so this part gets stripped by hand. 
The seamsealer has been removed from the roof drip rails both sides.  
The bottom of the upper hood skin was stripped with sanders and by hand. Now that is masked off with thick cardboard and gorilla tape. Now the bottom frame of the hood can be sandblasted without warping the top skin.  
Pinholes of rust showing up on the bottom front hood latch brace after blasting the bottom of the hood. this will be cut out and the inside of the brace blasted and epoxied before the new metal gets welded in.  
Pinhole rust in the bottom of the hood after sandblasting.  
Rust in the bottom of the hood after sandblasting.  
Stress crack in the right rear corner of the trunklid. I would say this happened when it got hit years ago. Its in the same area.  
The bottom of the trunk lid has been sandblasted. 
The bottom of the hood sandblasted. See how the masking works now. I have seen guys try to sandblast hoods without doing this. Well they make good snow sleds but not much count for a car anymore. This is how you do it.   
The rear bottom lip of the trunk after all sides of each piece of metal were sandblasted. Now this can start going back together.  
The bottom of the hood blasted and unmasked. Now the rust can be cut out and the inside of that front brace will be blasted. Here you can see the old glue that held the hood skin to the inner structure has turned loose.  
The botto of the hood after blasting and unmasked. now the rust will be cut out and the upper skin glued back to the inner shell. All the old glue has turned loose. there is a trick to doing that too.  
The old glue that held the hood skin to the inner shell broke loose. This will be glued back in place with  3M 8115 Panel Adhesive. The trick though is DO NOT glue it with the hood upside down.  
Stress crack in the trunk welded up.  
If you glue this back together with the hood upside down the weight of the hood will push the upper skin  toward the inner frame. once the glue dries it is held in that position and you have ponds in your hood. NOT GOOD.  
By gluing this with the hood top side up , the upper skin is relaxed and in its proper position. The glue will fill the gaps holding the skin in that location. If you push this skin down and fill this gap before gluing it you have ruined a hood. A 69 GTX hood is not an easy thing to fine either.  
First step on the trunk is to glue the outer skin back to the inner shell with 3m panel Adhesive. This will give a complete water tight seal. 
Once this dries the clamps will be removed and the panel adhesive sanded down. the a new inner lip will be made and a new piece made for the outer corner and they will get put on.  
The hood skin is getting glued to the inner shell. once this dries the hood can be turned upside down and the mess taken away.  
Gluing the hood skin back to the brace. Again if any of you people out there ever do this do not do it with the hood upside down. 
Starting to remove the trunk floor. Once its all removed, the inside of the frame rails will be sandblasted and coated with epoxy before the new floor goes in. That rust inside them needs to be cleaned up and it can not be done after the floor goes in.  
removing the trunk floor. 
Sandblasting the inside of the doors. This one is not quite finished. The blaster broke so its off to town to get parts to fix it.  
The outer skin was glued to the inner shell now  the new inner lip piece has been made and is getting trimmed to fit on the trunk lid. 
Inside of the left door sandblasted. 
Inside of right door sandblasted. 
Making and fitting the new piece for the outside of the trunklid.  
The new outer trunklid piece has been glued in place. 
Using 3M panel adhesive to glue the new inner lip to the trunklid. The panel adhesive is super strong and it makes a completely water tight seal. 
The panel adhesive has been trimmed down that glued the hood skin to the inner structure. The rust has been cut out and the bottom of the hood sprayed with epoxy. This way I can epoxy the inside of the inner brace before the rust gets welded up. 
The new trunk floor and new lower 1/4 sections are here. The right and left trunk floor extensions are on backorder. They should be here in early April hopefully. 
The outside of both doors have been sprayed with epoxy. 
The inside of both doors have been sprayed with epoxy. 
Pulling dents on the top of the hood after it has been stripped. 

Rust repairs on the bottom of the hood.

 
Rust repaired in the bottom of hood. 
The top of the trunklid in epoxy 
The bottom of the trunk lid in epoxy. 
Building front Roticery brackets. Yes its going on the roticery. 
Panel adhesive over welds on bottom of hood. 
Panel adhesive over welds on bottom of hood 
The welds on bottom of hood bodyworked. The rest of the bottom of the hood has been sanded with 180 grit.  
Front roticery brackets built and roticery getting bolted to the car. 
Ready for epoxy 
Ready for epoxy and primer 
The top of the hood has been epoxied. 
Epoxy 
Building roticery mounts and body braces for the back of the car.  
Roticery mounts being made and roticery getting bolted to the back of the car.  
After the epoxy flashed on the bottom of the hood it has been sprayed with primer.  
Getting the car mounted on the roticery 
Mounting car on roticery. 
The gas tank strap brackets have to be removed from the original trunk floor and cleaned up and welded to the new trunk floor.  
The gas tank strp brackets getting removed. the trunk spare tire jack bracket will also have to be cleaned up and welded to the new trunk floor.  
This just makes them so much easier to work on and it speeds things way up too. 
Its on the spinner. 
Rust cut out of the left 1/4 in front of the wheel opening.  
Cutting the lower rear 1/4 rust off of the left 1/4 panel. The trunk floor extension will be removed too.  
The rust has been removed from the rear of the Left 1/4 and the trunk floor extension has also been removed.  
The trunk floor removed at wheeltubs all the way up to where it ends. The bracing you see is to keep this car square. There is not much strength in the framerails without the trunk floor welded to them.  
This big hole will all be replaced with new metal. The trunk floor extensions are on back order but will hopefully be here by the time we need them.  
The rust has been removed from the back of the right 1/4 and the right trunk floor extension has been removed.  
Rust cut out of the right 1/4 panel in front of the wheel opening.  
Melting the lead out of the rockers on both sides. Rust tends to hide behind this stuff and the bottom of the rockers are rusty and need welded up and that would not work with lead in the way.  
Melting those big ugly globs of seamsealer out of the lower cowl and door pillars. The sandblaster has a hard time eating through seamsealer so this speeds things up a lot.  
Melting lead out of the cowl panel.  
If a person wanted to mini tub this car now is the time. 
In order to get the rear of the trunk floor trimmed out the trunk latch brace and rear body panel braces will have to be cut loose.  
Rust removed from the outer body panel rear on the left side. 
Rust removed from the rear body panel outer on the right side.  
The rear body panel to trunk floor braces have been cut loose and the back part of the trunk floor removed the rest of the way.  
The trunk latch bracket has been cut loose and moved out of the way and the back part of the trunk floor cut the rest of the way off.  
Trunk floor is all the way out. 
Cuttin rust out of the bottom of the rockers.  
Undercoat heated up, melted and scraped out of fender aprons. 
Melting and scraping the undercoat out of the rear wheeltubs so they can be sandblasted.  

Melting the undercoat out of the fender aprons so it can be sandblasted.

 
The inside of both doors have been sanded with 180 grit and the outside of both doors sanded with 80 grit so they can be bodyworked.  
The bottom of the trunk lid has been sanded with 180 grit and the top with 80 grit so it can be bodyworked.  
The top of the hood has been sanded with 80 grit and is ready to start bodyworking.  
Well this entire car inside and out top to bottom except the roof skin and 1/4 panel skins will be sandblasted. This is gonna be a big job. 
Once you start blasting its non stop till you are done and then you got to get the sand all out of the car so you can get it sprayed with epoxy before it starts rusting. 
There is no way we could do this and get the sand back out of this car if it were not on the spinner. The rockers, and frame rails would be full. You can not blast them properly if they are not on the roticery either.  
Being able to rotate the car is a lifesaver here.  
Once the bottom is done the inside will be done, the cowl, firewall rear frame rails inside and out package tray top and bottom inner 1/4 panels, whelltubs. everything except the flat outer sheetmetal. 
It looks done but there are a lot of nooks and cranys that still need to be gone over some more. This will be the foundation so it has to be right. Its like building a house. If the foundation is not right anything above it wont be either.  
Getting all the sand out now. Blowguns, shop vacuum and just keep blowing vacuuming and spinning the car till you get it all out.  
The next several pictures will just be of sandblasted areas of the car. This is a big car inside and out. 
 

Bottom blasted.

 
blasted 
 
Bottom of the rear package tray, trunk hinges and springs, wheeltubs sandblasted.  
Inner apron engine compartment 
The sandblaster will find the rust. these are pinholes in the passenger front floor. I think from the under dash A?C unit dripping condensation back in the day. The drivers side has no rust. Its usually the opposite. 
Look back on pictures of these frame rails inside before it was blasted you can see that had this not been done the rust would still be in there and covered with the new trunk floor. I do my absolute best to remove all rust and prevent it from coming back wherever possible.  
Rust in the right front corner of the trunk jam. This too was hid under the seamsealer.  
This is the front crossmember below the trunk floor at the back seat braces.  
This is a step here that most shops do not do. I removed the rusted trunk floor prior to sandblasting so all the rust on the inside of the rear frame rails could be blasted and coated with epoxy before the trunk floor goes in. Attention to detail! 
Inside drivers floorpan. No rust. 
Pinhole rust in the right floor. This is going to get panel adhesive on it. The floors are solid and have been blasted fully top and bottom so cutting the original floor out for this would be crazy.  
Rust in the lower right back glass opening. We are finding more rust in the car than what we originally  thought there would be.  
Rust in the left rear window opening at the bottom. This is real common on The GTX and Roadrunner here.  
Rust in the left front corner of the trunk opening. This is why I remove seamsealer. This rust was hidden under the seamsealer.  
 
The left sail panel. We are going to have to cut this out and put mew metal in here.  
This rust was hidden under seamsealer too. If you do not remove all of the original seamsealer this stays and keeps growing. 
That looks so much nicer with all that old undercoat removed. It was flaking off in places and there was bare metal under it so had it been left on there it would have been a rust issue down the road.  
Apron blasted 
We are going to have to remove this and put some new metal in here.  
Engine compartment blasted.  
 
 
The right sail panel looks great. there must have been a rip or something in the vinyl top that allowed moisture to get to the left side. 
 
The gas tank brackets and side cover plates for radiator support and front radiator support brace have been sandblasted.  
sanding the trunk floor so it can be epoxied before it gets welded in. 
The new trunk floor is getting sanded and epoxied before it gets welded in. This will be so much easier and faster. After welding all we will have to deal with is the weld areas the rest will already have epoxy on it.  
Panel adhesive in the right sail panel seam.  
Panel adhesive on the inside of the right floorpan.  
I put the panel adhesive on now because it has to have clean bare metal and you can not get any cleaner than this. I can epoxy over this and then grind it down later.  
Panel adhesive on the windshield post seams and filling the staple holes from the vinyl top 
The area on the cowl where the old lead was melted out has got 3M 8115 panel adhesive in it now instead of lead. 
Panel adhesive in the back glass channel filling the staple holes from the vinyl top.  
Panel adhesive over the upper part of the right dogleg seam. The rest will get it after the rocker rust has been welded up.  
All that lead that was melted out of the windshield posts and cowl is getting replaced with panel adhesive. The staple holes in the windshield opening for the vinyl top are getting filled with it too.  
panel adhesive in the left dog leg. the rocker seam will get it after the rocker rust is repaired. I use panel adhesive any place there used to be lead.  
Panel adhesive on the right 1/4 sail panel seam and filling staple holes. I know this is kinda redundant but the owner of this car is in Florida and I am in Missouri so its important that I be thorough so he knows whats going on with his car.  
Panel adhesive on the lower door pillar left side 
Panel adhesive on the lower door pillar right side 
Finally its been sprayed with 2 coats of epoxy.  
epoxy 
Now with the inside of the rear frame rails epoxied the trunk floor can go in and this in here is coated and protected from future rust issues.  
epoxy 
epoxy 
epoxy 
Epoxy 
epoxy  
Epoxy on the new trunk floor 
epoxy on the new trunk floor 
epoxy on the small misc. brackets 
I sprayed the entire body inside and out with 2 coats of epoxy. Once the epoxy flashes off I an going to spray primer in the engine compartment and on the door posts. 
epoxy 
epoxy 
The entire body in epoxy and primer on the door pillars and in the engine compartment. 
Primer in the engine compartment 
The next step for the body is repairing the rust issues. Its going back uphill now. up do this point is was all teardown and prep work for rebuilding. 
Doing bodywork on the right door 
Doing bodywork on the left door. 
Doing bodywork on the trunklid. 
Doing bodywork on the hood. 
The inside of the left door has been bodyworked and is masked off for seamsealer.  
The inner rear lip on the trunk lid has ben bodyworked and it has been masked for seamsealer.  
The inside of the right door has been bodyworked and masked for seamsealer.  
Seamsealer on the inside of the door. I use 3M 8308 seamsealer. 
Seamsealer on the other door.  
Seamsealer on the inside of the trunklid.  
The bodywork on the trunk is finished and its ready for epoxy and primer.  
The bodywork on the right door is finished and its ready to epoxy and prime.  
The left door is bodyworked and ready to prime.  
The hood, trunk and doors have been moved to the booth for epoxy and primer.  
Hood ready to prime.  
I will epoxy them first and then once it dries they will get 3 coats of primer.  
epoxy 
epoxy 
epoxy 
epoxy 
primer 
primer 
primer 
primer 
Repairing the rust in the bottom of the right rocker. This is a double piece repair. the inner rocker piece has to be built and welded in first. The metal bar is holding it at the right angle. 
The spare tire bracket has been welded to the new trunk floor. 
The brackets for the gas tank straps have been welded to the new trunk floor.  
The right inner rocker piece has been made and welded in. this will get coated with etch primer and painted black before the top piece is welded in place.  
The left inner rocker piece has been made and welded in. It has been etch primed and painted now the new outer piece can be made for this side and welded in. 
The right outer rocker piece has been made and welded in place.  
The right inner rocker has been repaired and painted. The outer piece has been made and is ready to weld in.  
Making the new piece and welding it in place for the lower right 1/4 panel in front of the wheel opening. 
The new outer rocker piece for the left side has been made and is getting welded in. 
The  rust in the lower right 1/4 has been repaired in front of the wheelopening. 
The roll has been rebuilt into the wheeltub on the lower rt 1/4 in front of the wheelopening 
The left rocker has been repaired. The factory used lead on this seam but we will use 3M panel adhesive. 
The rust has been repaired on the bottom of the left 1/4 in front of the wheelopening 
Panel adhesive over the seam on the left rocker 
panel adhesive over the seam and repair on the right rocker. 
The rust below the factory seam on the Lf sail panel was cut out and the new piece is being made.  
Rust removed on the lower rear glass channel on the left side. 
The rust below the factory seam has been welded up on the Left sail panel. Now the rust above the seam has been cut out and a new piece is getting made for that.  
Here are the trunk floor extensions we have been waiting for. they have been on back order. Fed Ex dropped them off today.  
the rust above the factory seam on the left sail panel has been repaired and the new metal piece has been made for the lower back glass channel and it is ready to weld in place.  
Rust has been cut out of the left front trunk jam and the metal has been cleaned and etch primed. 
Building the new pieces for the lf trunk jam 
Left trunk jam rust repaired 
Panel adhesive will be spread over all these repaired areas. the factory used lead but we do not use lead anymore.  
Left rear glass opening rust repaired 
Left trunk jam rust repaired 
Rust cut out of the right trunk jam. the metal below has been cleaned up and epoxied. A new piece will be made for this. 
Rust cut out of right back glass opening. there is a bottom piece that has to be made here and welded in and then another piece that goes over that. 
Panel adhesive over the welds on the left sail panel and back glass rust repair. 
Panel adhesive over welds on the Left trunk jam rust repair. 
Building and welding in the new piece in the right front and side of the trunk jam 
The inner piece for the right rear glass corner opening has been made and welded in. It was then sprayed with etch primer. The new outer piece is being made and will be welded in next. 
The rust has been repaired on the right side front part of the trunk jam. 
The rust has been repaired in the right lower corner of the back glass opening. 
panel adhesive over the welds on the left rocker seam and the repair on the lower left 1/4 in front of the wheelopening. 
Panel adhesive over the repair in the trunk jam right side front 
Panle adhesive over the factory 1/4 seam on the right side and over the repair in the back glass opening lower right. 
The trunk floor drop offs are getting fit up with the floor. They are going to need a little reshaping. 
Fitting the new trunk floor. This will all be lined up and screwed in place. 
Rough fitting the lower left 1/4 section to get alignment for the trunk floor drop off. A piece will be made to extend the front where that hole is. That area of rust was removed and these pieces do not go that far.  
If you notice the trunk floor drop off does not quite fit the 1/4 panel at the bottom. This will be reshaped to fit. 
Trunk floor getting screwed in place. 
The trunk floor has been fit and screwed in place. Once all the other pieces are fit the car can be welded. 
Rust cut out of the left 1/4 wheeltub. A new piece is being made for this. 
The left wheeltub has been repaired. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the left wheeltub repair before the 1/4 section is put in place to stay.  
The left lower 1/4 and extension piece along with the trunk drop off and trunk floor are ready to weld. Now to fit the right side. 
The left lower 1/4 section has been fit in place and the front extension piece also made and fit in place. 
Fitting the right trunk floor drop off. Notice it does not come all the way up and fit with the 1/4 section. This has to be reshaped to fit.  
The rust has been cut out of the right wheeltub and a new piece made and welded in. the right trunk floor drop off has been reshaped to fit the 1/4 section. 
The right lower 1/4 has been welded on and ground down. 
There you have it. It is officially a car again. All the rust in the back has been cut out and replaced with new metal. 
trunk floor, and extension and 1/4 welded left side. 
The left lower 1/4 section has been welded in place. 
The trunk floor is welded to the frame rails and wheeltubs.. Thee trunk floor extensions are are welded in place and so are the lower 1/4 sections.The welds have been ground down. 
The trunk floor is welded in. Now these cross braces can be removed and the trunk lid fit on the car to get alignment for the rear body braces and the trunk latch bracket. 
Building the piece for the rear body panel right side. 
Building the piece for the rear body panel left side. 
Building the extension piece for the right 1/4 
Epoxy on the wheeltub and trunk drop off before the right 1/4 section goes on to stay. 
trunk floor and extensions and lower 1/4's all welded in place both sides 
Rear body welded up right side. 
Lower 1/4 welds cleaned and ready for panel adhesive.  
Trunk floor, trunk floor extensions, lower 1/4 sections, rear body sections, front 1/4 sections and lower rocker sections wheeltub sections , all rust removed and replaced with new metal. 
The welds were ground down and the trunk floor sanded top and bottom so it can be sprayed with epoxy.  
Rear body braces and trunk latch support braket have been welded back in place. 
Welds on the lower 1/4 panels all cleaned up and ready for some panel adhesive over them. 
Trunk floor inside sanded and ready for epoxy. 
Panel adhesive sanded in the left front trunk jam. 
Panel adhesive sanded down on the right lower rocker and 1/4 panel in front of the tire. 
Panel adhesive sanded down on the bottom of the left rocker. 
Panel adhesive sanded down on the right sail panel and right back glass opening. 
Panel adhesive sanded down on the left windshield post and cowl. 
Panel adhesive sanded in the right trunk jam front. 
Panel adhesive over the welds on the inside of the rear body panel. 
Panel adhesive over the weld seam on the inside of the 1/4 above the trunk floor extension drop off. We want to finish this out so you will not be able to tell it has had lower sections replaced when you look inside the trunk. 
Panel adhesive over welds on lower 1/4 sections and wheeltubs. 
Panel adhesive on the rear body welds 
Panel adhesive sanded down on the right windshield post and cowl. 
panel adhesive on the rear body welds. 
Panel adhesive sanded on the right rocker and 1/4 in front of the tire. 
Panel adhesive over welds on lower 1/4 sections and wheeltubs 
Panel adhesive over the weld seam on the inside of the lower 1/4 sections. most places would not worry about this but who wants to open their trunk and say "Oh its had lower 1/4 sections put on it". When this is done there will be no way of knowing. 
Panel adhesive sanded on the left rocker and left 1/4 in front of the tire. 
Mopars are bad about rust in the rear body area so we are covering the weld seam on the inside here too. This way nobody will be able to tell that the rear body has been repaired.  
Panel adhesive sanded on the lower right 1/4 section. 
Panel adhesive sanded on the rear body panel right side. 
Panel adhesive sanded on the rear body panel left side 
Panel adhesive sanded on the lower left 1/4 section 
The trunk floor and all rust has been repaired and epoxied.  
Epoxy has been sprayed on the bottom of the trunk floor, frame rails, and wheeltubs along with all areas that had panel adhesive on them. 
Its nice to see it all welded up and ready to bodywork. This is a big step right here. 
The epoxy can dry over the weekend and the car will then be ready to sand and start the bodywork.  
Epoxy has been sprayed on the inside of the trunk floor, rer body panel and wheeltubs along with all areas that had panel adhesive on them. 
The roof, rear trunk filler behind the back glass , The tops of both 1/ panels and both sail panels have been sanded with 80 grit and are ready to bodywork. 
The left rocker has been sanded with 80 grit and is ready to bodywork. 
The rear body panel is sanded with 80 grit and ready to bodywork. 
The cowl panel has been sanded with 80 grit and is ready to bodywork. All areas to be bodyworked will be sanded with 80 grit. The rest of the body will be sanded with 180 grit. 

If you remember the door pillars, hinges and engine compartment has already been primed. These areas are getting sanded with 180 grit.

 
The right 1/4 sanded with 80 grit. A light skim coat of filler will be applied to the entire body to work out the small dings and waves in the metal.  
The right rocker has been sanded with 80 grit and is ready to bodywork.  
The left 1/4 sanded with 80 grit and ready to start bodyworking. 
A thin coat of filler has been applied to the right rocker.  
Now that the entire body has been sanded with 80 grit a thin skim coat of filler is applied to level out any waves in the metal. Most of this will end up on the floor. 
The cowl has had filler put on it and the roof is getting bodyworked.  
The left rocker has a skim coat of filler on it. 
Filler on the left 1/4. Some shops don't do this and end up priming and blocking the car multiple times. This is the better way to do it and in the long run its faster too. Once this is sanded most will be on the floor and you do not get that huge primer buildup. 
Bodyworking the tops of the 1/4 panels, the sail panels, the filler panel and trunk jam. 
Bodyworking the left 1/4. Notice there is very little filler left but everyplace you see it was a slight wave in the metal. even new cars are wavy. llok down the side of one and you will see ripples in them. 
sanding filler on the roof, tops of the 1/4 panels and rear filler behind back glass. As you can see there is very little filler that stays but this saves a lot of time in priming and blocking.  
Bodyworking the right 1/4. 
Working on the right 1/4 and rocker. This side still has a ways to go yet. 
Working on the top of the right 1/4. 
Looking better. 
The left side is getting closer. Its down to fine tuning now. once its all bodyworked to 80 grit the entire body will be blocked with 180 grit prior to epoxy and primer. 
Still bodyworking.  
Finalizing the bodywork on the 1/4 panels. 
Finishing the bodywork on the left rocker 
Finishing up the bodywork on the left 1/4 
The firewall, fender aprons inner and outer, radiator support inner and outer and frame rails are all getting sanded with 180 grit.  
Finishing up the bodywork on the rockers. 
left inner apron and frame rail sanded with 180 grit. 
Radiator support sanded with 180 grit.  
Inner fender apron sanded with 180 grit. 
Firewall sanded with 180 grit.  
Radiator support sanded inside and out with 180 grit.  
The bottom of the right rocker has been bodyworked and is ready to prime. 
Rocker ready to prime. 
The bottom lip of the 1/4 panels and wheelopenings have been bodyworked.  
Bottom lip on the other 1/4 ready to prime.  
Left inner apron and frame rail sanded with 180 grit.  
Bodywork finished in trunk floor seam over frame rail.  
trunk floor welds bodyworked 
The left outer fender apron and frame rail have been sanded with 180 grit along with the cowl and door pillar.  
Right fender apron and frame rail outer has been sanded with 180 grit along with the cowl and door pillar.  
Right rocker has been bodyworked and jams sanded with 180 grit.  
Bodywork finished on right 1/4 and sail panel. 
Bodywork finished on left 1/4 and sail panel. All bodywork gets finished out to 80 grit and then the entire car body gets blocked with 180 grit prior to epoxy and primer. 
Windshield posts are bodyworked. 
Bodywork finished inside left 1/4 above trunk floor drop off area. If this was not done here you would be able to tell that a 1/4 section has been put on. Once finished you will never know.  
Bodywork finished on top of left 1/4 and on rear filler panel. 
Bodywork finished on cowl Left side. 
Bodywork finished inside right 1/4 where it was sectioned. once finished you will not be able to tell a piece has been put in here. We sectioned the 1/4 extensions below the trunk drop offs  where we could so the seam will not be visible.  
Bodywork finished on roof. Once all the bodywork is finished to 80 grit then the entire car body gets blocked with 180 grit prior to epoxy and primer.  
Bodywork finished on top of right 1/4 and filler panel.  
Bodywork finished on rear filler and trunk jams. 
Bodywork finished on rear body panel left side. 
Bodywork finished on left rocker. The jams have been sanded with 180 grit. 
Bodywork finished on rear body panel right side. 
Bodywork finished on cowl right side 
Bodywork finished on rear body panel center. 
These holes on the lower rear body have been torn out and will have to be repaired.  
Seamsealer on the bottom of the car. This is a VERY important step that a lot of shops skip. You skip this step and your car will rust out Guaranteed! 
Seamsealer on the bottom of the car. Once all the seamsealer is done the car body can be epoxied and primed.  
The torn gas tank strap holes have been repaired. 
The front two moulding holes on the back part of the left 1/4 have been drilled. This area was replaced so the holes were lost. 
The right 1/4 moulding holes have been drilled. this part of the 1/4 was also replaced so the holes had to be put back here too. 
The primer on the hood has been blocked with 180 grit. 
The primer on the trunk lid has been blocked with 180 grit.  
Left trunk opening jam and left 1/4 to rear filler seam masked for seamsealer. 
The right inner fender apron has been masked for seamsealer. 
Right trunk jam. 1/4 to filler seam and taillight area masked for seamsealer. 
Left taillight area masked for seamsealer 
Left drip rail and 1/4 jam masked for seamsealer. 
The outer left cowl and fender apron masked for seamsealer.  
The outer right cowl and fender apron have been masked for seamsealer.  
The lower radiator support outer has been masked for seamsealer. 
The left inner fender apron has been masked for seamsealer. 
Seamsealer in rear package tray 
Seamsealer right inner wheeltub and trunk floor 
Seamsealer lf taillight area. 
Seamsealer right taillight area.  
Seamsealer right trunk jam and 1/4 to filler seam. 
The left trunk jam and 1/4 to filler has been seamsealed. 
Seamsealer in floorpans 
Seamsealer in front floor pans 
Seamsealer left inner wheeltub and trunk floor 
Seamsealer floor pans rear seat area and wheeltubs 
Seamsealer in both 1/4 panel to filler seams and rear package tray 
Seamsealer in left drip rail 
Seamsealer rear body panel 
Seamsealer right cowl and door post area 
Seamsealer right outer fender apron 
Seamsealer left inner fender apron 
Seamsealer radiator support lower right 
Seamsealer right inner fender apron 
Seamsealer left fender apron outer 
Seamsealer left 1/4 jam 
Seamsealer left door post and cowl area 
Seamsealer radiator support lower left 
Now that is a lot of seamsealing right there. It is a step that few shops will do but without it your car will rust out. That I can guarantee. Humidity alone will cause moisture and rust between unseamsealed panels.  
All the bodywork and seamsealing is done. The entire body has been wiped down with cleaner and is ready to epoxy and prime. 
The bottom of the car has all ben seamsealed and is ready for epoxy.  
Ready to epoxy and prime. 
Bodywork and seamsealing is finished. The body has been wiped down with cleaner and is ready to epoxy and prime.  
The primer on the left door has been blocked with 180 grit and it is ready to reprime. 
The primer on the right door has been blocked with 180 and it is ready to reprime. 
Epoxy 
Epoxy on the sandthrough areas of the right door. 
Epoxy 
Epoxy 
Epoxy 
Epoxy 
Epoxy 
Epoxy on the sandthrough bare metal areas on the left door. 
Epoxy on the sandthrough areas of the hood. 
Epoxy on the sandthrough areas of the trunk 
Epoxy 
The bottom of the car is now ready for 3M Bodyshutz but I will not do that until all blocking and priming is done on the body. That way I do not have to worry about getting overspray on it.  
The left door has been reprimed 
The hood has been reprimed 
Trunk reprimed 
Hood, trunklid and both doors have been reprimed 
Right door reprimed 
The body is in primer. This is a huge step here. 
The body is in primer. 
Primer 
Primer 
Primer 
The right and left 1/4 extensions that cover the taillights have been stripped. 
Rear filler panel and tops of both 1/4 panels blocked with 180 grit 
Roof blocked with 180 grit 
Cowl panel blocked with 180 grit 

Left 1/4 blocked with 180 grit

 
Lf 1/4 blocked with 180 grit 
Right 1/4 blocked with 180 grit. 
Left 1/4 blocked with 180 grit 
Right 1/4 blocked with 180 grit 
Rt 1/4 blocked with 180 grit 
Right rocker blocked with 180 grit 
Left rocker blocked with 180 grit 
Those seals in the fenders under all that undercoat are dryrotted and will need replaced 
About to get started on the front fenders. All this undercoat in here will need to be removed. 
All the old undercoating has been removed from the inside of the right fender. 
Undercoat removed on inside of left fender 
The brace on the inside of the right fender is badly rusted so it was cut out and a new one made and welded in. 
The outside of both fenders have been stripped. 
sandblasted 
sandblasted 
The inside of the left fender sandblasted 
The headlight pocket area and rear brace, and inside of the left fender have been sandblasted.  
The upper tie bar and lower valance panel have both been sandblasted.  
The car body has been wiped down with cleaner and epoxy has been sprayed over the bare metal sandthrough areas.  
epoxy on the sandthrough areas 
epoxy on both rear 1/4 extensions 
Epoxy on inside of left fender 
epoxy on inside of right fender 
epoxy on outside of left fender 
epoxy on outside of right fender 
epoxy on the upper tie bar and lower valance panel. 
The body has been reprimed. 
The body has been reprimed.  
The body has been reprimed. 
The upper tie bar has been sanded with 180 and is ready to prime.  
The epoxy on the left fender has been sanded down with 80 grit and is ready to start bodyworking.  
Rust in the left fender inner brace. This side will get repaired. The right fender got a whole new brace built and welded in.  
The epoxy on the right fender has been sanded down with 80 grit and is ready to start bodyworking.  
Bodyworking the right and left 1/4 extensions. 
The entire body has been blocked and hand sanded with 320 grit. the sand through areas are getting epoxied and primed.  
The epoxy on the tie bar has been sanded and it is ready to prime. 

The entire body has been block sanded with 320 grit. Epoxy and primer is getting sprayed on the sandthrough areas.

 
The firewall fender aprons inner and outer, frame rails, radiator support inner and outer, cowl, door pillars and hinges have been sanded with 320 grit. 
Epoxy on the 1/4 extensions. 
Epoxy on the tie bar. 
Primer on the sandthrough areas. The sides of the 1/4 panels above the wheelopening is going to get blocked with 320 again. 
Primer on the sandthrough areas. the 1/4 panel above the wheelopening will get blocked with 320 grit again.  
The 1/4 extensions are in primer.  
Bodywork finished on the left fender.  
Bodywork finished on left fender. 
Bodywork finished on right fender. 
Bodywork finished on right fender. 
The tie bar is in primer.  
Primer blocked on left 1/4 extension. 
Primer blocked on right 1/4 extension. 
Stripping paint off all four side reflector bezels.  
Epoxy on both fenders. 
Both 1/4 extensions have been blocked and are now getting reprimed. They are in epoxy here.  
Side reflector bezels have been epoxied. 
Both fenders have been primed.  
Both 1/4 extensions have been reprimed and all 4 side marker bezels have been primed.  
The 1/4 extensions are fit to the car . The trunklid had to be put on and lined up to get these in the right place before seamsealer goes on. 
The 1/4 extensions have been sanded with 320 and fitted to the car. The trunk lid had to be put on to line them up. The 1/4 extensions were seamsealed to the 1/4 panels and painted with the car originally. That's what will be done here.  
Seamsealer on the 1/4 extensions. 
Seamsealer on the 1/4 extensions. 
Seamsealer on the 1/4 extensions.  
Seamsealer on the 1/4 extensions. 
The seamsealer on the 1/4 extensions had been epoxied and primed. The seams will be sanded and reprimed to make it all even. 
Primer o0n the seamsealed 1/4 extensions. 
The primer on the right fender has been blocked with 180 grit.  
The seamsealed left 1/4 extension has been sanded and is ready to reprime.  
The seamsealed right 1/4 extension has been sanded with 320 and is ready to reprime.  
Masking to spray 3m Bodyshutz on the bottom of the car.  
Masking the body to spray 3M Bodyshutz on the bottom of the car.  
Bodyworking the lower valance panel and blocking primer on the left fender.  
3M Bodyshutz on the bottom of the car.  This part is really close to moving to the paint shop. All that is left is the bodyshutz inside the rear 1/4 panels and the car body can go to the paint booth.  
Bodyshutz on the bottom of the car. 
The right fender has been blocked with 180 grit and is ready to reprime.  
The left fender has been blocked with 180 grit and is ready to reprime.  
The lower valance has been bodyworked and is ready to prime.  
Epoxy on the valance panel. 
The lower valance panel has been primed. 
Epoxy was sprayed on the bare metal sandthroughs and then the entire left fender was reprimed.  
Epoxy was sprayed on the bare metal sandthrough spots and then the right fender was reprimed.  
The lower valance panel has been blocked with 180 and is ready to reprime.  
The bottom of the trunk lid has been sanded with 320 grit and the sandthroughs have been spot primed.  
The lower valance panel has been epoxied and reprimed.  
The right fender has been blocked with 320 grit. 
The trunklid has been blocked with 320 grit. 
The left fender has been blocked with 320 grit. The sandthrough areas on both fenders will be epoxied and spot primed. then the fenders and lower valance panel are going to the paint shop. 
The lower valance panel has been blocked with 320 grit.  
The lower  valance has been sanded with 320 and the sandthrough spots epoxied and spot primed. this part is now going to the paint shop. 
The sandthrough areas on the right fender have been spot primed. This piece is going to the paint shop now.  
The sandthrough spots have been epoxied and reprimed on the trunklid. I am going to block the reprimed areas with 320 grit and then this piece will be moved to the paint shop.  
The sandthrough spots on the left fender have been epoxied and primed. This part is now going to the paint shop.  
While sanding the bottom of the hood with 320 I noticed 4 broken spot welds at the back lip on the hood. This has to be fixed. These will get welded up. 
Another broken spot weld at the back of the hood.  
Another broken spot weld at the back of the hood. Most shops would over look this at this point with it all being ready to sand with 320 but if these are not welded up this is going to lead to bigger issues down the road. Attention to detail I guess you can call it.  
The broken spot welds have been welded up on the back of the hood. This will be ground smooth and then epoxied and primed.  
Bodyshutz on the inside walls of the 1/4 panels. 
The bottom of the hood has been sanded with 320 grit and the spot welds have been repaired. The welded spot welds and sandthrough areas on the bottom of the hood have been spot primed.  
Masking and spraying 3M Bodyshutz on the inside of the 1/4 panels to match what the factory had in there.  
The top of the trunk has been blocked with 320 again. This part is now going to the paint shop.  
The inside of the right door has been sanded with 320 grit.  
The inside of the left door has been sanded with 320 grit.  
sandthrough areas spot primed on the inside of this door.  
Epoxy on the bodyshutz inside the 1/4 panels. Once this is sprayed with spatter paint it will look just like it did in 1969. 
Epoxy sprayed over the bodyshutz inside the 1/4 panels. I did this so the spatter paint will have a grey base everywhere in the trunk. It will not cover the black bodyshutz and would look funny without doing this.  
Sandthrough areas spot primed on the inside of this door.  
Masking off the holes in the doors so the inside of them can be undercoated.  
If you spray the under coat in the doors without masking them first it blows through these holes and makes one heck of a mess.  
Inside of the doors have been undercoated.  
Under coat sprayed inside the 1/4 panels in front of the tires. This is where the 1/4 glass goes. 
Inside of the other door undercoated.  
Under coat inside the 1/4 panels where the 1/4 glass goes. 
Its going to the paint booth. 
Moving the body to the paint booth. 
The body is in the paint booth. 
masking it to spray the inside floors, firewall, package tray and roof. 
I am going to spray all this with chassis black. There is no need in putting the car color on areas that are all getting covered up. Chassis black is cheep and very durable. 
This is not all the paint stuff we are going to need but it will get us started. 
Inside painted. 
Now is when it all starts to look like something. Planning on getting some green on it in the next couple days. 
Inside painted. The chassis black works great for this. it gived the areas that will not be seen a good protective coating and it also helps lock down any sanding dust that is trapped in the floors. 
The next step will be getting some of the right color on the outside so we can get suspension, motor, trans, wiring etc in it and make it drivable again. 
The bottom of the rear package tray, trunk hinges and supports and wheeltubs , inside of rear body panel 1/4 walls and trunk floor have been painted. The 1/4 walls and trunk floor will get spatter paint over this. It needs to overspray onto the green to be original.  
Blocking the hood with 320 grit.  
The right door has been blocked with 320 grit.  
The left door has been blocked with 320 grit.  
Powder guide coat has been put on the car body and it is ready to start wetsanding with 400 grit. the 1/4 panels, rockers and roof will be wetblocked with 400 then hand sanded with 400 along with the rest of the body. 
Powder guide coat on the body and ready for wetsanding.  
The materials bench.  I will be using Dupont well now called Cromax but anyway its still DuPont to me. Chromabase color in the original F3 green with Chromampremier clear. Lots of different reducers, activators and such.  
guide coat on and ready to wetsand with 400 grit. 
The entire body has been wetsanded and washed. Now its getting dried with chamois, blowguns and a big fan.  
Ready to paint. 
Wetsanded, washed, dryed and ready to mask for paint. 
Wetsanded and ready to paint. 
Wetsanded and ready to mask for paint.  
Masking to paint. 
Masking to paint. 
masking to paint. 
Masking to paint 

Masking to paint

 
Masking to paint. 
The booth lights mess with the color in the picture but you can see how strait it is here.  
Painted. 
Painted Chrysler code F3 Green in  Chromabase with three coats Chromapremier clear.  
It wont take a lot of polishing. The roof is getting a vinyl top and most of the cowl will be black later so really the 1/4 panels and rear deck are all that will need polished.  
All that time and effort in the bodyshop shows here. The painters always get credit for nice cars when in reality its the bodywork that makes it this nice. That starts at day one of the build. 
You just can not get straiter than that. 
I am going to get this out of the booth tomorrow  and give this thing a quick polish and get it unmasked. It turned out great strait clean and no dry spots or runs. The temp in the booth was above 90 degrees so dry spots were more of a concern than runs. 
This car could not have turned out any better. The bodywork is flawless. Not a ripple or wave in it anywhere. This car is gonna be one slick old GTX. 
Painted 
Painted 
We are in need of suspension parts now. 
The hood has been blocked with 320 grit. 
The right door has been blocked with 320 grit and the sandthrough areas spot primed. the door is now ready for the paint shop. 
The left door has been blocked with 320 grit and the sandthrough areas spot primed. This door is ready for the paint shop. 
Moving the body out of the paint booth to the other side of the paint shop for polish and reassembly. 
The hood was blocked with 320 and the  sandthrough areas reprimed. The hood is off to the paint shop. 
The upper tie bar has been wetsanded and is ready for paint. 
All four sidemarker bezels have been wetsanded with 400 grit and are ready to paint. 
The bottom of the trunk has been wetsanded with 400 grit and is ready to paint. 
Lower valance panel  has been wetsanded with 400 grit for paint. 
Engine bay pieces sanded for paint. 
The roof will  not be polished since its getting a vinyl top. The 1/4 panels were lightly sanded with 2500 grit and will be polished with 3 different compounds. I did not want to sand this one like glass because we are looking for an original look when finished. 
The bottom of the hood, upper tie bar, all four sidemarker bezels, trunk striker and trunk bolts have been painted. 
The bottom of the trunk, the lower valance panel and the support bar and two side covers for the engine bay have been painted.  
Once the doors and fenders are on it and its on the ground the black on the bottom will be done. After the hood goes on the black on the top of the hood and fenders will be done. Believe it or not there are five different colors used on this car.  
Polished and unmasked. 
The firewall and dash will be looked at soon and we will see what we need to do there and we will start the reassembly I am thinking of putting a new heater core in it before the heater box goes back in. I am sure the one in it is original. 
Polished and unmasked. Now its time to start ordering weatherstrips, seals and several other small things for reassembly. As soon as we get the suspension back in it the body will come off the roticery.  
Its been a good week!!!!!!!  
The fenders have been powedre guidecoated and are getting wetsanded for paint. 
The right fender wetsanded, washed and dryed. This one is ready for paint. 
The inside of both doors have been wetsanded with 400 for paint and the top of the trunklid wetsanded for paint and masked for paint.  
The trunklid has been masked on the bottom so the top can be painted.  
Both fenders have been wetsanded and are ready for paint.  
The hood has been guidecoated and is getting wetsanded for paint.  
The dark green has been sprayed on the inside of the doors. This is getting masked off so the light green can be sprayed. then it will be unmasked and cleared.  
dark green sprayed on the inside of the doors. 
The dark green is masked off and now the light green can be sprayed on the inside of the doors. 
The hood is wetsanded and ready for paint. 
The inside of the right door has been painted. 
The inside of the left door has been painted. 
The ID plate that goes on the fender apron has been painted.  
The trunklid has been painted.  
Powder guide coat on the right door. 
Powder guide coat on the left door. 
Fenders mounted on stand for paint. 
Hood masked for paint. 
The bottom of both doors were masked off so the tops could be painted.  
Right fender painted. 
Left fender painted.  
Left door painted. 
Hood painted. 
All the major parts of the car are painted. the textured black paint on tops of fenders and hood and cowl has to be done once the car is assembled. the same is true with the black along the bottom of the car. There are still small pieces to paint, dash, trim, hinges, brackets, bolts, etc. 
Most shops would skip this step but not here. This heater box will be taken apart and cleaned.The metal parts painted and  the heater core rebuilt and new foam seals put in the box as needed.  
Its time to start the reassembly process. Some parts have been brought out of storage.  
Heater box taken apart and cleaned out. Mouse nest gone, leaves gone, rust gone. 
The heater core removed. se that rust spot. The heater core leaks and has been for a long time. This here and the under dash A/C is what caused the rust in the right front floor pan. 
The other side of the heater core looks worse. a new one is not available but my radiator shop guy said he can clean and rebuild this one. Had we not taken this apart and looked it would leak and the floor would rust out again. Attention to detail! 
The metal parts inside the heater box are pretty rusty from the heater core leaking so they are going to get cleaned and painted.  
Heater box parts painted. 
Heater box fiberglass shell cleaned and ready to reassemble.  
Ready to reassemble. 
New foam on the flap door inside the heater box. The original was rotted away and falling off and crumbling to pieces. 
Replacing foam strips on heater box. the box can not be fully assembled until the heater core is back from the radiator shop.  
Replacing the foam strips on the heater box. 
Putting the firewall insulation pads back in the car.  
The wiper motor has been cleaned, installed and some of the wires retaped because a mouse had chewed the insulation off.  
The heater box is assembled as far as it can be until the heater core is repaired.  
The emergency brake cable has been cleaned, painted and installed to the petal assembly. 
The emergency brake assembly has been cleaned and installed. 
The vent that goes in the side of the cowl is getting cleaned up. the weatherstrip seal on it was falling off too so it has been cleaned up and glued back in place.  
The trunk has been sanded with 2500 grit and is getting polished. I use 3 different compounds each a little finer than the one before. I wash between each one. When its machine polished it gets washed, dryed and then hand polished. 
The trunk is on the car. Final adjustments will be made after the weatherstrips are installed. The latch has been cleaned and it and the striker installed. 
Sanding the door on the outside with 2500 grit to be polished.  
The wiring to the back of the car is a bit of a mess. It is getting cleaned up repaired and retaped. Everything you see here from the finger out will be removed. This was for a trailer hitch. This car will no longer be pulling a trailer so that wiring mess can go.  
Polishing the inside of the doors. 
The part on inside of both doors that will not be covered by the door panel got sanded and polished too.  
Polishing the doors. Both doors got the same treatment. 
The door latches are pretty dirty and gummed up from years of crud. They are getting cleaned with steel wool and carberator cleaner. then wiped with laquer thinner and then sprayed with WD-40. The trunk latch got the same. 
The right door has been polished and fit on the car. Final adjustments will be made after weatherstrips are installed.  
Door latch cleaned and lubricated. 
The left door has ben polished and installed.  
Door latches installed.  
Door strikers cleaned and installed. final adjustment on all the doors and trunk can not be done yet but they can at least be latched shut so they are safe. 
The center of the hood has been sanded with 2500 grit to be polished. there is no need to polish the rest since the sides will be sanded and painted black down the road.  
Working on the rear wiring. 
Working on the wiring to the back of the car. the trailer hitch wiring has been removed and the harness repaired. it is now getting routed. 
Polishing the hood. 
The left fender has been sanded with 2500 grit and is getting polished.  
The gas tank vent line has been cleaned up and painted. 
The right fender has been sanded with 2500 grit and is getting polished.  
Hood polished. The black can not be done until the hood and fenders are on the car.  
Nap time? No. Working on the wiring that goes under the rear package tray. 
Right fender polished. 
left fender polished 
Working on getting things back in the engine compartment. the wiring has been all cleaned up and is getting installed. 
Its got a ton of assembly work yet. There is still parts that need prepped and painted too but its well on its way to being a car again. 
We are real close to needing suspension parts now.  
The black on the fenders top and bottom can not be done until they are on the car and that wont be until all suspension and motor and transmission are in. 
 
This is going to one very nice car.  
The horns were cleaned and painted the wiring cleaned up the relay cleaned and it all installed. we have to get original style plastic wiring retainers yet.  
gas petal assembly taken apart cleaned, painted lubed and reassembled. 
The gas petal assembly has been taken apart, cleaned painted lubed and reassembled. 
Dome light switches cleaned and installed in each door pillar. 
The original floor plugs are getting cleaned up. they have MOPAR part numbers on them so we want to use as many as possible. The bad ones of course will be replaced. 
Cleaning painting and installing 

Cleaned and painted the windshield squirters and installing them and the hoses.

 
Horns cleaned and painted relays cleaned and wiring ran and installed. the original plastic wiring loom holders are bad and those will have to be replaced.  
Floor pugs cleaned up 
Misc. engine bay wiring loom brackets cleaned up. 
Hood safety catch and striker cleaned up and painted. 
trunk wiring ran light switch wired gas tank wires installed gas vent tube painted and installed floor plugs installed 
Fuel lines installed. 
The fuel lines and retaining clips have been cleaned and painted and installed.  
Fuel lines painted and installed. 
The dash has been completely taken apart so it can be sandblasted and prepped for paint. It has some surface rust in the corners. 
Heater box put back together. 
The radiator shop said the heater core was not repairable so they got us a new one.  
Heater box installed 
Cleaning up the wiring to the front lights. 


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