Herron Custom Paint Work in Progress Herron Custom Paint November 18, 2017   

Photos of works in progress

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This is Dr Dukes Nova. This project is currently not here. It is at Dr. Dukes waiting on an engine. You can look at what we have done to it so far here.  
The car will go on the roticery at some point to be blasted. We are still undecided on the bottom of the car. It will either be painted or 3M bodyshutz will be sprayed on it. Either way it looks like we will not be doing any rust repair. 

The left horn location. This seems basic but a picture you don't need is better than needing one and not having it. We have alot of cars going so its better to have reference photos.

 
Firewall wiring reference photo. 
This is just a reference photo to show wiring route to front. 
The right horn and wiring route across radiator support. Another reference photo. 
The bottom of the trunk is showing light surface rust but nothing that a light blasting wont take care of.  
The original VIN plate on the firewall. 
Other than this small rip this door panel is still in great shape. 
We will be shaving the door handles and locks and the gas filler will go. A fuel cell will be mounted in the trunk. A 9in ford rear end will be installed. The leaf springs will no longer be used. 
The back before we started. We will be moving the inner tubs in to the frame rails and opening up the wheelhouse a little to make room for the bigger tires. 
The front before we started. 
No rust in here either. Bill has already changed the front suspension to tubular control arms, drop spindles, disk brakes, slotted rotors and coilovers. 
The dash is still in pretty good shape. This car has not seen a hard life. 
I bet you have never seen a trunk floor that is this good in one of these cars. This is sweet! 
The right 1/4 glass has been removed. The felts and channels will need replaced. The same with the left side. It has been removed also. 
The wiring to the front of the car, horns, hood hinges have been removed. 
The gas tank has been removed. 
The left door has been tore down and removed. 
The left fender has been removed. Some of the bolts on the fenders were rusted and the cagenuts broke loose. No big deal just makes for a little longer removing them. 
The hood still has the original insulation pads in it. 
When taking the left door apart we discovered this broken inner door release where the handle attaches.  
The right door has been taken apart and removed. The right fender and hood has been removed. 
The trunk has been stripped. 
Stripping the left fender. 
Stripping all the undercoat off the inside of the left fender. 
The rear lower fender mounting point is broke on the right fender. This will be rebuilt. 
The right fender has been stripped. 
All the undercoat has been removed from the inside of the right fender. 
The fenders have been stripped and the jams are getting sandblasted. 
Some pinhole rust is showing up here and there in the fenders after blasting. This will have to be repaired. 
Pinhole rust in the fenders after blasting. 
Sandblasting the inside of the trunk. 
The broken fender mount has been welded. 
Rust was found in the top of the fender. 
The rust has been cut out and so has the fender mounting brace. 
The rust has been cut out of the fender. 
Tom built a new mounting brace. The old one is laying next to it. 
The fender has been welded up. 
The new fender brace has been welded in. 
The fenders and trunk have been stripped inside and out. The welds were sandblasted. 
The trunk and fenders are ready for epoxy. 
When the epoxy dries these parts can be bodyworked. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the trunk and fenders inside and out. 
The bodywork is done on the left fender. 
Bodyworking the right fender. 
Masking the bottom of the trunk to apply seamsealer. 
Jim is bodyworking the trunk lid and one of the fenders. All metal no matter how strait is wavy. A skim coat of filler removes those waves and cuts way down on the priming and reblocking and repriming. 
The bottom of the trunk has been bodyworked. 
The hood hinges have been blasted. 
Starting to bodywork the front valance panel. 
Rust cut out of the doors. 
We use 3M panel adhesive to glue the inner hood structure back to the outer hood skin. 
The front valance will be sandblasted. 
The trunk has been sprayed with 3 coats of urethane primer and a guide coat. 
The top of the hood has been stripped. 
Stripping the doors. 
The inside of the hood has been stripped everywhere we can get to. I am going to have the rest of it mediablasted. 
The fenders have been sprayed with 3 coats of urethane primer and then a guide coat. 
The inside of the trunk has been primed. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the inside of the fenders. 
Both fenders have been bodyworked and are ready to prime. 
The inside of the trunk has been bodyworked and seamsealed and is ready to prime. 
The inside of both fenders are ready to prime. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the inside of the trunk.  
The inside of the fenders have been primed. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the outside of the fenders. 
The trunk lid is ready to prime. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the trunk. 
The panel adhesive on the inner hood structure has been sanded and now this can be sprayed with epoxy. 
The fenders have been blocked and epoxy sprayed on the bare metal and filler areas. When this dries they will get 3 coats of urethane primer and a guide coat. 
The door shells were blasted on the inside to clean up any rust that was left. They will get a heavy coat of epoxy for now. Then we can go back later and repair them. 
The trunk has been blocked and epoxy sprayed on the bare metal and filler spots and its ready to prime again. 
Sandblasting the inner door shells. 
The hood hinges and front valance were sandblasted with the doors and they are all rteady to epoxy. 
The fenders have been blocked and reprimed and guidecoated. The doors are ready to strip. Yea I know this picture is out of order. I don't type well either.  
The trunk has been blocked and is ready to reprime. 
What we thought was a rust free car has turned out not to be. Some pinhole rust was showing up on the bottom edge and corners of both doors. So we cut it out. 
Some rust holes in the doors. 
Both doors were showing rust pinholes in the corners and along the very bottom lip. 
Rustholes. 
The rust was cut out of the doors. They were stripped and sandblasted on the inner door frame and lower inner shell. Now they are ready for epoxy. 
After cutting the rust out of the door and sandblasting it some rust shoed up on the inner door structure.  
Blocking the primer on the trunk. 
Blocking the primer on the fenders. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the bottom of the hood. 
The trunk has been blocked and reprimed. 
The top of the hood has been sprayed with epoxy. 
The doors, hood hinges and front valance have been sprayed with epoxy. The hinges and bottom of the valance and glass frames on the doors will get primed. 
Rebuilding the rusted out door corners. 
Rebuilding the door corners. 
We are shaving the door handles and locks. 
The hood has been bodyworked, sprayed with epoxy and primed and guidecoated.  
The holes for the hood chrome have been welded up, and panel adhesive put over the welds. 
I am blocking the primer on the hood. 
The rust has been welded up on the doors. 
Rust repair on the inner part of the doors. 
Bodyworking the bottom of the hood. 
Jim is going to fix all the little dings and waves in the bottom of the hood. 
The rust on the inner door structure has been repaired. 
Jim is working on the front edge of the hood where the holes for the chrome were welded up. 
The door handles and locks have been shaved. 
Panel adhesive over the welds on the outside of the right door. 
The hood has been blocked and is ready to reprime. 
Panel adhesive over the welds on the lower part of the left door outside. 
The bodywork is done on the bottom of the hood. It is ready to prime. 
Panel adhesive over the welded areas on the inside of the left door. 
After the welded areas on the doors were sandblasted 3M panel adhesive was put over the welds. 
After all the rust was repaired the welds were ground down, sandblasted and 3M panel adhesive was applied to the welded areas. 
Jim is tearing the dash down. 
The panel adhesive has been sanded down on the left door inside and out and it has been sprayed with epoxy. When this dries the door can be bodyworked. 
The panel adhesive was sanded down on the right door inside and out. It has been sprayed with epoxy. When this dries the door can be bodyworked. 
Epoxy has been sprayed over the bodywork on the bottom of the hood. 
Epoxy was sprayed on any bare metal of filler spots on the top of the hood after it was blocked. When this dries it will be primed. 
The top of the hood has been reprimed and guide coated. 
The bottom of the hood has been primed and guide coated. 
The epoxy on the doors has been sanded. Now they can be bodyworked. 
The dash is getting tore down. The wiring and heater box still has to come out. 
The front valance has been boxyworked and sprayed with epoxy. 
The outside of the doors are about done. Then he will flip them over and do the inside. Then they can be hung up and primed. 
The bodywork on the inside of the right door.  
Bodywork on the inside of the left door. 
The heaterbox and wiper assembly and antenna have been removed. 
Jim has started bodywork on the doors. 
Jim is bodyworking the doors. 
The primer on the hood has been blocked again. Now the hood can be reprimed and sent to the paint shop. 
The trunk jam has been stripped. 
The rear body panel has been stripped. 
Stripping the left 1/4. 
The left lower 1/4 has been stripped. 
The windshield opening has been stripped. 
This is why we like to remove all the old seamsealer from these cars. See that surface rust under there. Seamsealer may look good but if it has been in there as long as this you can bet that there will be rust under it every time. 
The left door pillar and 1/4 jam have been stripped. 
Stripping the right rocker. 
Stripping the right rocker and door jam. 
Stripping the bottom of the right 1/4. 
Stripping the filler panel in front of the trunk lid. 
The left rocker has been stripped. 
The hood has been primed again. It is ready to go to thye paint shop. The valance has been primed. It will get blocked and reprimed. Then it will go to the paintshop. 
The inside of the right door has been bodyworked and sprayed with epoxy. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the bare metal spots on the hood after it was blocked. When this dries it will be primed. 
Stripping the cowl. 
The inside of the left door has been bodyworked and sprayed with epoxy. 
We do not have room in the bodyshop right now to move the car body down there. Its nice enough outside to start stripping the paint off of it. That way we don't get all that dust in the paint shop. 
Stripping the cowl. 
Stripping the roof. 
Stripping the right 1/4 panel. 
The left windshield post has been welded up. 
The moulding hole in the right rocker have been welded up. 
The right windshield post has some rust holes in it in this area. Just to be safe we are going to replace this metal on this side too. I would hate for it to start rusting here 6 months after the car is done. 
Cutting the rust out of the right windshield post. 
No more antenna hole. 
The moulding holes in the left rocker have been welded up. 
Jim is welding up the moulding holes in the rockers. 
A new piece will be made for the left windshield post. 
There is alot of surface rust on the inner right windshield post. This will have to be sandblasted and covered with etch primer before the new metal can be welded in. 
The lead has been melted out of the right sail panel. 
The lead has been melted out of the right upper windshield post. 
The lead has been melted out of the right lower windshield post. All these areas will be sandblasted and the lead replaced with 3M panel adhesive. 
The lead has been melted out of the left upper windshield post. We do this because there is usually some rust behind the lead. 
The lead has been melted out of the left lower windshield post. 
No more gas filler hole. 
The front valance has been primed and is ready to go to the paint shop. 
The inside of the right door has been primed. 
The lead has been melted out of the left sail panel. 
The primer on the front valance has been blocked. Epoxy was sprated on the sandthrough areas. When this dries it can be primed. 
The inside of the left door has been primed. 
Right now I am sandblasting the welded areas so we can put panel adhesive over the welds. I am also blasting the windshield posts and sail panels where the lead used to be. 
The steering column, geerbox and the rest of the dash wiring has been removed. 
Moving the car outside to sandblast. Yea I know this one is out of order. 
The rusty inner right windshield post structure has been sandblasted. It will be coated with etch primer and then the outer post will be rebuilt. 
The glass openings, trunk lip opening, jams, and any areas on the body we could not strip are getting blasted. 
The front suspension has been removed. 
The dash has been taken the rest of the way apart. 
Sandblasting the front firewall and engine compartment and radiator support. 
Panel adhesive on the left lower 1/4 to rocker seam. 
Panel adhesive on the right tailight pocket seam. 
Panel adhesive in the right lower 1/4 to rocker seam. 
Panel adhesive on the left tailight pocket seam. 
Panel adhesive on the left cowl seam. 
The rusted right windshield post was rebuilt. The welds were sandblasted and panel adhesive applied. 
Panel adhesive on the right cowl seam. 
Panel adhesive on the right front rocker seam. 
Panel adhesive on the left front rocker seam. 
The gas door welds were blasted and panel adhesive has been put over them. 
The welds on the lf 1/4 where the moulding used to be have been blasted and panel adhesive put over them. A dent that was pulled and welded up got the same thing here. 
Panel adhesive over the welds and where the lead used to go on the left windshield post. 
Panel adhesive ovber the welded up moulding holes on the rockers. 
Panel adhesive over the sandblasted arear on the left sail panel where the lead used to be. 
Panel adhesive over the welded up and sandblasted 1/4 moulding holes. 
I sandblasted the old seam sealer out of the trunk filler seam and replaced it with panel adhesive. 

I sandblasted the old seamsealer out of the lower seam on the sail panels and we replaced it with panel adhesive.

 
Panel adhesive on the right sail panel where the lead used to be. 
The floors are solid. They have undercoat still on them in spots and we left all the original seam sealer in. I just knocked of the loose stuff to spray bodyshutz down here. 
All the panel adhesive has been sanded down. The body has been sanded with 180 grit. All the sandblasting is done. It is getting masked up. It will then be wiped down with cleaner and sprayed with 2 coats of epoxy. Yea this one is out of order. 
The left apron has been blasted. 
The bottom of the front structure has been blasted. 
While I was sandblasting I done a quick blast on the bottom of the car to knock off the loose stuff. We are going to bodyshutz this so we do not have to get real carried away under here. 
The radiator support has been sandblasted. 
The right engine bay has been sandblasted. 
The right apron has been blasted. 
The left engine bay has been sandblasted. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the firewall 
The bottom of the floor has been epoxied. 
Epoxy on the right side. 
The left side of the body has been sprayed with epoxy. 
Epoxy on the left 1/4. 
Epoxy on the right 1/4. 
After the epoxy dried we primed the front structure.  
The radiator support and firewall have been primed. 
Primer on the right front structure. 
Jim is blocking down the epoxy on the body with some 80 grit papaer.. Then it will be ready to bodywork. 
The bodywork has started on the left 1/4 panel. A skim coat of filler will get rid of the waves in the metal. 
I am sanding all the primer on the firewall and inside the engine bay and both sides of the radiator support. 
Jim is bodyworking the left 1/4 panel. 
The engine bay has been sanded. Its ready for some seamsealer where needed. Then we got a couple small dings to take care off and it can be reprimed. Then this arear can be sanded for paint. After the rest of the body is done. 
Jim is bodyworking the right 1/4 panel. 
I am masking the front structure to seamseal. 
The left 1/4 is taking shape. 
The bodywork is done on the right side except for the rocker. 
The right rocker is about to be bodyworked. The tape keeps filler out of the jam and 1/4 seam. As soon as filler is spread on the tape is pulled off.  
The bodywork is done on the left side except for the rocker. 
The trunk opening, rear body panel, both door jams and both drip rails lower inside the jam have been seamsealed along with the floor seams inside the car. 
Bodyworking the left rocker. 
Seam sealer on the right engine bay and firewall. 
Seam sealer on the left inner fender. 
Seam sealer on the left engine bay and firewall. 
The right 1/4 and sail panel are pretty much bodyworked. 
Seam sealer on the right fenderwell. 
The left 1/4 and sail panel is pretty much bodyworked. 
The right side is ready for primer. 
The bodywork is done. Jim is wiping the body down with cleaner and then its time for epoxy. 
I am spraying the body with epoxy. 
Once the epoxy is sprayed on the body I can heat the shop up and cure it out and get primer on it. 
The right side in epoxy. 
Epoxy on the left side. 
After the body is ready to paint we will install the new rear end setup. Then all the suspension pieces are off to the powedercoat shop. 
While the part are being powedercoated I will paint the inside of the car, the engine compartment, and the inside of the doors. Then The bottom of the car will get sprayed with 3M Bodyshutz. 
Once the body is all blocked out it will be primed again. There will probably be a few areas that will need blocked and primed a second time. 
We will let this dry over the weekend. Jim will start blocking the primer with 180 grit Monday. 
Once the epoxy dried I sprayed 3 coats of Urethane primer on the body and 2 coats on the firewall and engine compartment. Then I sprayed a guide coat on the body and areas on the front structure that need sanded. 
Sorry guys but there may not be any more pictures for a week. Its deer season and I am off to the woods. The guys will be here working and taking pictures but I may not get them on the web till after deer season. Thanks. 
The primer has been blocked on the left rocker. 
Blocking the primer on the left door. 
The primer on the right rocker has been blocked. 
The primer on the right 1/4 has been blocked. 
The primer on the right door has been blocked. 
Jim is blocking out the primer on the body. 
The primer on the rear body has been blocked. 
The garnish mouldings have been stripped and are ready to prime. 
Blocking the primer on the cowl. 
Blocking the primer on the left 1/4. 
Blocking the primer on the cowl. 
The primer on the roof is getting blocked. 
Now that the primer has been blocked out on the entire body any pinholes in the bodywrk can be taken care of with polyester glazing filler. This stuff is designed to use over urethane primer to fix minor imperfections. 
We decided that since this car is not going to be original that all the factory waves and dimples should be fixed in the engine bay. 
Fine tuning the left door. 
Fine tuning the right door. 
Fixing a few pinholes in the right 1/4. 
Finetuning the right door. 

Fixing the minor imperfections in the left 1/4.

 
Fixing a few imperfections on the top of the left 1/4. 

Jim is fixings a few pinholes in the filler on the left 1/4. The glazing filler is put on super thin and just fills the pinhole when you get it blocked off. Most places don't worry about this stuff but we aren't most places.

 
We have marked the dimples with tape to be fixed. 
 
 
 
 
 
Fixing these will really clean up the engine compartment and it wont take that much time to do. 
Fixing all these will make it look alot cleaner in here.  
Now the body can be reprimed. 
Fixing the factory dimples and waves in the engine compartment. 
This is really going to clean this up under the hood.  
Fine tuning the firewall. 
Jim is fixing those areas in the engine compartment and firewall that were marked with tape. 
The drip rails have been masked and are ready for seamsealer. 
When these are all taken care of the entire car can be primed again. 
The drip rail channels have been bolted back on the windshield posts and the driprails have been seamsealed. When the spot epoxy dries the entire body can be primed again. 
The body has been blown off and wiped down with cleaner. Epoxy has been sprayed over any bare metal or filler spots. 
Epoxy has been sprayed over the bare spots in the engine compartment. 
Spot epoxy in the engine bay. 

Epoxy has been sprayed on any bare metal or filler spots on the body.

 
Spot epoxy on the firewall. 
The roof has been reprimed. 
The body has been reprimed. 
The engine compartment has been reprimed. 
The rear body has been reprimed. 
Once the epoxy dried the body was reprimed. 
The guide coat acts like a road map when you are blocking the primer. It shows areas that you have not sanded and shows any scratches or imperfections that need blocked more. 
Guide coat on the rear body. 
Now the body is ready to be blocked again. 
After the primer flashed off the body was sprayed with a guide coat. 
The primer is getting blocked again on the left side. After the primer is blocked down this time the body will be primed and ready to wetsand for paint. 
Well Jim it was your idea to take care of all those pesky factory dings and waves. Now you get to sand the primer. 
The right side has been blocked. 
The roof has been blocked again. 
Blocking the primer on the right side of the body. 
The right side has been blocked more and is ready to reprime. 
We found a few dings in the left rocker jam and fixed them. 
We found some dings in the right rocker jam and fixed them. 
The left side has been blocked down more and is ready to prime. 
The engine bay has been resanded and is ready to prime. 
Epoxy on the bare metal and filler spots in the engine bay. 
Epoxy on the bare metal and filler spots on the lf side. 
Epoxy on the bare metal and filler spots on the right side. 

The car has been wiped down with cleaner and Jim is spraying epoxy on bare metal and filler spots.

 
It has been reprimed. 
The engine bay has been reprimed. 
The whole car was reprimed with 2 coats of urethane primer. I put 3 coats on the side of the 1/4 panels and doors. I want to block those areas again. The rest of the body is ready for paint. 
I blocked the primer on the left side again just down the center. 
The headlight bucket pieces that bolt to the side of the radiator support and the front coil spring cover pieces have been sandblasted and are getting sprayed with epoxy. 
I blocked the primer on the right side again just down the center. 
Epoxy on the right side bare metal and filler spots. Also on the drip rail seamsealer. 
I blew it off, wiped it down with cleaner and sprayed epoxy on the bare metal and filler spots. The seamsealer on the drip rails has cured out so I sprayed eopxy on that too. 
I have reprimed the center of the right 1/4 and door. I have primed the drip rail channel where the seamsealer was. I will sand the primer over the seamsealer and reprime that again. 
The left side 1/4 and door where I blocked has been reprimed. The drip rail channel seamsealer has been primed. I will sand and reprime the seamsealer in the driprails. The rest of the car is ready to sand for paint. 
The old rear end has been removed.  
We got to take the springs off the old rear end to get to the spring perches. They will have to be installed on the new 9" rear axle housing. 
Well we are getting ready to install the new rear end setup. The 3rd member bump stop has to be cut off according to the instructions so thats whats happening. 
Some of the new rear end mounting brackets. 
The upper control arm brackets and shock mount crossmember have been fitted , holes drilled and bolted up. When it is all mocked up these will all be welded to the car body. 
The center spot welds on the spring perches have to be drilled out.  
A die grinder was used to cut the welds on the spring perches. A cutting torch would have ruined the perches. This took a little longer but we saved the spring perches and done little damage to the old rear end housing. 
This rear end can go outside. We got what we need off of it. 
The spring perches on the new 9" rear axle housing will have to be cut off so we can weld the original ones to the new rear end. 
Cutting the spring perches off the new rear end. These perches can be ruined so the torch is getting used here. Then the axle housing will be ground smooth before the other perches are welded on. 
The GM perches have been sandblasted and are ready to fit to the 9 in. rerar end. 
The perches were cut off the new 9 in. rear end and the welds ground down and the rear end smoothed up. Now its ready to fit the Gm perches to it. 
Careful measurements were taken and the spring perches are getting tacked to the new rear end. Nothing is getting welded in place yet. It all has to be fit first. 
The rear end is getting fitted under the car. Alot of measuring and adjusting here. If the 9 in. rear end would have come with the GM perches welded on in the right location this would be a sinch. As it is its pretty tedious. 
It all measures out. The rear end in perfectly centered and squared in the car. The travel up and down is right it should be ready to weld in solid. 
 
The right side. 
 
The left side. 
Well there it is. Its mocked up with the mounting tabs and spring perches tacked in place. Nothing is welded solid yet. 
A few more tack welds before we remove the rear end. 
Now the rear end can be welded up for good. 
Its time to take the front suspension the rest of the way apart.  
Finishing up the welding on the rear end. 
Welding the rear end  the rest of the way up. 

The brackets that go on the bottom of the car get bolted and welded. The metal is getting cleaned so it can be welded.

 
Welding the suspension brackets to the bottom of the car.  
The welds we put on the rear end are getting finished out with the die grinder. This should look like it was all molded together as one piece when its done. 
The front suspension has been taken apart. The pieces that can be powdercoated will be. The ones that can't be powdercoated will have to be painted.  
I am masking the car off to spray the Body Shutz on it. I will be spraying the bottom, inside, right and left wheelaprons, inside both doors and 1/4 panels. 
The floors will be get sprayed with Body Shutz. I am doing the inside of both doors and inside the 1/4 panels in front of the rear wheel opening. 
Its time to spray. 
The bottom has been masked to Body Shutz. I Variprimed the welded areas and seamsealed around the suspension mount points and anywhere else it was needed. 
Its masked off to spray the 3M Body Shutz. 
Masked for body shutz. 
This is some messy stuff. 
The Body Shutz has been sprayed on the bottom. 
The bottom from the front. 
The inside floor and inside of the doors have been  sprayed with Body Shutz. 
I sprayed the inside of the 1/4 panels too. 
The left fender apron has been sprayed with Body Shutz. 
The back side of the headlight pockets were sprayed with Body Shutz. 
Body Shutz on the right fender apron. 
Body Shutz on the spring covers that go in the fenderwell.  
The glove box has been taken apart. The moulding holes for the chrome strip will get welded up. Then it and the ash trat and hood latch and striker will be sandblasted, epoxied, bodyworked where needed and primed. 
The suspension parts have been sanded, repaired and prepped for paint. I have sprayed them with Dupont 222 adhesion promoter. Now they are ready for sealer and paint. The rest of the stuff is at the powdercoater. 
The suspension pieces that can not be powdercoated are getting any nicks and dings fixed and will be painted. 
Fixing a few nicks in the control arms. 
Its in the paint booth!!!!! 
The glovebox has had the holes welded up and bodyworked and it along with the ash tray were sandblasted and primed. 
The hood latch and striker have been sandblasted and primed. 
The suspension pieces were sprayed with sealer, then black base, then cleared. 
The left inner 1/4 has been sanded to paint. 
The inside of the right door has been sanded to paint. 
The inside of the left door has been sanded and is ready to paint. 
The right inner 1/4 has been sanded to paint. 
The entire engine compartment, firewall, radiator support has been sanded to paint. 
The dash has been sanded to paint. 
Some of the bolts, the shock tower covers, the headlight buckets, and valance bracket have been sanded to paint. 
The rear package tray and trunk hinges have been sanded to paint. 
The dash has been masked off to paint. 
The glove box door, ash tray, shock tower tops, headlight buckets, some bolts, and the valance bracket have been sanded to paint. 
The inside of the car has been masked to paint. 
Well I wiped the dash down with wax and grease remover before I sanded it and before it was sealed and it fisheyed real bad.  
Thats what Armor All will get you. I guaranttee that over the years the dash pad was wiped down with Armor All. Thats the worst thing in the world on paint. A little voice in my head said we should have stripped the original paint off the dash. 
This will be a lesson learned. From now on anytime we are painting a dash its getting stripped first. The entire dash and windshield posts will have to be stripped to bare metal. 
Its too late for sandblasting. The only way I can strip this now is with a scotchbrite pad and laquer thinner by hand. Thats what I am doing now. 
That was a long and messy job. Its stripped. Now I will wipe it down with thinner on a clean rag and sand it all with a dry scotchbrite pad. Then it will get wiped down with wax and grease remover.  
The windshield posts fisheyed too and were stripped. This is the left one. 
The right windshield post has been stripped. This has got to be painted tommorow. Then Saturday I got to do the engine bay and inside the doors. If not its going to mess up all of next week and the following week. I'll get it straitened out. 
The dash has been sprayed with epoxy. When this dries it will be primed.The inside of the windshield posts were stripped and epoxied too. 
This has made for a long day. I'm not going to bill for this. Its not really our fault but I should have stuck to doing what I knew should have been done and sandblasted the dash when we done the rest of the front structure. I just don't feel right billing for it. 
The dash and posts have been primed. Tommorow I will have to wetsand all this and the rest of the inside of the car where I sprayed the sealer on it today, then wash, dry, remask and paint. Looks like I'm working this weekend.  
The brake petal, steering column loop and defrost vents have been sanded to paint. 
The wiper motor has been sanded and is ready to paint. 
The blower motor has been sanded and is masked to paint. 
The trunk opening has been masked to paint. 
Variprime on the wiper motor. 
Variprime has been sprayed on the defrost vents and steering column loop. 
The inside has been masked to paint again. 
Variprime has been sprayed on the brake petal. 
Well the dash and entire inside has been sanded again, washed, dried and remasked to paint. The fisheye problem should be eliminated now. I hate Armor All.  It causes a pile of problems in a body shop. 
Variprime has been sprayed on the blower motor. 
The brake petal has been painted. 
The blower motor has been painted. 
The wiper motor has been painted. 
The defrost vents and steering column loop have been painted. 
Im am spraying the inside of the car, dash, and trunk jam. This was taken through the booth window so its not very good. 
I sprayed 4 coats of color on it and then 2 coats of clear. The color is Dupont Hot Hues  Blue By-You 741519-HH with Dupont Chromapremier Clear. 
The trunk hinges and trunk opening along with the rear package tray top and bottom have been painted. 
The inside right has been painted. 
The inside left  has been painted. 
The glove box door, ash tray, shock tower tops, headlight buckets, valance bracket, and some bolts have been painted. 
The dash and inside of the car have been painted. 
The left door is masked off to paint the inside. I am painting the entire glass chanel on the top inside and out. 
The right door has been masked to jam in. 
The engine compartment has been masked off and is ready to paint. 
The bottom of the frame rails and tranny tub have been masked to paint.  

It turned out great.  This is one of the most difficult things I have painted. This engine compartment is small and trying to move around in there without the paintgun, hose, paintsuit, or any part of me touching anything is tough.

 

Hot Hues only comes in pints. We started this with 13 pints. I have used half of it so far. This color is very transparent and does not cover well. We are going to have to buy more paint to finish the car.

 

I got a few more suspension pieces to paint. We got all the powedercoated stuff back. Next its time for suspension.

 
The engine bay has been painted. It took 5 coats of base and 2 coats of clear. Dupont Hot Hues Blue By-You with Chromapremier clear.  
The left door has been jammed in. 
The right door has been jamed in. 
Getting all the rear end parts ready to go in. 
The tie rods and front brake calipers are ready to seal, base black and clear with Matt clear for a satin black finish. The two ball joints will be sealed, based black and cleared for a gloss finish. 
The steering geerbox has been mediablasted and is ready to paint. I will spray it with sealer, then black base, then Matt clear. That will give it a satin black finish. 
The right side control arms and spindle are on. 
All the rear end pieces have been either painted or powdercoated and its going back in the car. 
The glovebox door has been put together and installed. 
The glovebox door has to come back off. We need a new insert. This one is wore and it has slop in the hinge mount. This is causing the door to not fit properly. Its going to scratch the dash if we leave it on. 
Overspray on the headlight retaining rings from the last paintjob. 
The overspray is gone and the headlight rings have been polished. 
The horns and headlight mounting rings have been sandblasted. 
The horns and headlight mounting plates have been painted. 
Taping the springs before the spring compresser goes on. 
The control arms have been taped to put the springs in. 
Installing the rear springs. 
The worlds largest windchime??? 
The crossmembers are in. 
Wetsanding the inner door shells upper and lower with 2500 grit. Then they will be polished. 
The rear suspension is in. 
We put the horns and lights on for the wiring people. 
The spring is in on the left side. These springs are not fun. 
The left upper and lower contol arms and spindle are on. 
The right spring is in. 
Polishing the inside of the doors. 
The front suspension on the left side is done. 
The right front suspension is put together. 
The left door has been bolted on, glass and latches installed. This will all come back apart after the power windows and electric door poppers are installed. 
The right door has been bolted on and glass and latches installed. This is temporary so the power windows and electric door poppers can be installed. Then it all has to come back apart for paint. 
Polishing the left side of the engine compartment. 
The dash has been sanded and is getting polished. 
Polishing the right side of the engine compartment. Once this is done its going back to Dr. Dukes house for an engine, tranny and wiring. Then it will be back to finish up.  


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