Herron Custom Paint Work in Progress Herron Custom Paint November 18, 2017   

Photos of works in progress

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This was Jennifers 1st car. She sold it and it went through a couple different owners, got beat up a bit and then she found it and bought it back. Now we are going to restore it for her. It is currently not here. You can see what we have done to it so far.  
The left front corner. 
It is going to need fenders and a hood for sure. 
The left side. 
The rear. 
This is a look at the left side of the dash. This still looks pretty good. 
The right side of the dash.  
The left engine bay. 
The seats are showing some wear but that nothing for a good upholstery shop. 
The right engine bay. 
The back bumper, tailights and trunklid have been removed. 
Both doors have been tore down. The glass, regulators, handle and locks have been removed both doors. 
The chrome around the windshield and back glass have been removed and the front bumper removed and taken apart. 
The front bumper has been removed. 
The front clip has been taken all apart and removed. 
Don't freak out Jennifer it will be alright! 
Tom is working his way back. The interior is next. 
The dash has been removed. 
The body has been set on the cart until we get it on the roticery. 
The roticery brace has been mounted to the body. 
This is some rust in the right front toe board area. 
The rear end has been removed. 
The subframe has been removed. 
Some rust in the floor at the right rear wheeltub.  
Rear body panel rust at the frame rails. Once the rear suspension is out we can get a good look at the frame rails and see what condition they are in. This is a unibody car so all the structure is in the body itself so  all the rust will have to be dealt with. 
The rear body panel is in bad shape. It will need this for sure innere and outer and likely full 1/4 panels on both sides. 
Rust in the left rear floorboard where the tub and floor meet. I don't think we will need a complete front floor pan probably just patch panels. Again its still too early to tell. 
The upper left wheeltub is showing some bad rust. Its looking like inner and outer wheeltubs on both sides. The right inner might be repaired its too early to tell yet. 
When we tear down we mark and bag all bolts for reassembly. 

Tom is building the brackets to mount the car on the roticery.

 
The frame rails seem to be the worst of it. They are in bad shape up front where the spring perch is. 
The bodymount hole in the subframe has been repaired. 

This bodymount hole was rusted out on the subframe. Tom is fixing it.

 
The trunk floor is showing some holes by the frame rails but it doen't appear to be bad enough to replace the entire trunk floor. 
Rust on the inner part of the right frame rail. The floors are pretty good but the frame rails are going to need some work. Its looking like we rocker panel rust also. 
Rust in the front part of the right frame rail. 
The rear body panel inner is in bad shape. The trunk floor itself seems pretty solid. The wheeltubs are likely repairable. After all the undercoat is removed and its blasted we will know more. 
One of the first thing we are going to do is get all this undercoat off here and sandblast the bottom and see just how bad it is. 
Its on the roticery. Now we can get a better look at the bottom. 
Rust on the inner left frame rail at the spring perch area. 
I am taking a torch and melting the undercoat off the bottom so we can take the car to be mediablasted. 
We loaded it up to take to be mediablasted.We usually sandblast them ourselves but this job needs a bigger blaster than we have. It will be blasted with steel shot instead of sand. 
When it comes back it will be completely bare metal inside and out top to bottom. Then the entire car will be sprayed with epoxy. Then we can start the rust repair. Then it will be on the way back up Jen! 
Rust in the right rear floor pan. 
Rust in the upper left wheeltub. 
The bottom rear after blasting. 
Trunk floor rust. 
Rust in the rocker panel. 
Rust in the outer rear body panel. 
Yea it looks bad, but its not as bad as it looks.  Sam's 68 camaro was way worse than this. On that car though you could buy everything except the front section of the frame rails. This stuff is right up Tom's alley. It wont be a problem for him. 
We had the whole body media blasted. I took it to Pro Powdercoating and they blasted it with steel shot. It doesn't warp it and it gets rid of the rust. Soda blasting will not get rid of the rust. 
Tom will be doing alot of fabrication work on this car. Alot of the pieces we need are not being reproduced. 
They blasted the whole thing inside and out top and bottom. They done a really nice job on it. 
Rust in the rear floor pans. 
The right front floor is showing some rust. 

Rust in the trunk floor.

 
Rust in the front floor pans. 
Rust in the right frame rail. 
Rust in the left frame rail. 
The rear after blasing. 
The inside after blasting. 
We got the body back from the sandblaster. 
Trunk floor rust. 
The inside has been epoxied and primed.  
The epoxy will protect it while the rust is getting repaired. After its all welded up the welds will be blasted and it will get epoxy on those areas. 
After the two coats of epoxy dried it was sprayed with Urethane primer on the areas that will not need welded or bodyworked. 
We blew out as much of the shot from blasting as we could for now and sprayed the entire body inside and out with epoxy. 
Cutting the rusted out right rear floor section and frame rail. 
Rust is getting cut out of the left wheeltub. 
Tom is building the right frame rail. 
Rust has been cut out of the right inner wheeltub. 
Tom is working on rebuilding the left inner wheeltub and frame rail. 
Rust has been cut out of the upper windshield frame. 
This is whats left of the frame rail and floor section on the left side. Not much here. 
The rust has been cut out of the left rear floor and frame rail 
The rusted out part of the left frame rail has been removed. 
Rust is getting cut out of the left frame side rail. 
The rust on the left inner wheeltub and back seat support has been cut out and new pieces made and welded in. 
The rust on the outer right wheeltub lip has been cut out and new metal formed and welded in. 
The rust is welded up on the upper windshield opening. 
The rust has been repaired in the right toe board. 
Rust was cut out of the left side rail and inner tub and new metal welded in. 
The rear floor arear on the left side has been rebuilt. 
The final welding will be done when the car goes back on the roticery. Welding upside down is a pain and it can be done later when the car can be flipped on its side. 
The frame rail on the right front has been rebuilt. It is getting welded in.  
Tom is rebuilding the right frame rail and inner wheeltub and floor. 
The new left frame rail has been fabricated and welded in. There will be more welding to it once the car is strong enough to mount back on the roticery. 
The new left frame rail section. Once the rear body panle and tail pan has been repaired the car will be ready to go back on the roticery. Then it can be turned on its side and the final welding done here. 
Tom hand built all this. These pieces can not be bought. Used ones are all rusted out too so you got to build them. This is another look at the left frame rail area by the rear seat. 
The rust was cut out of the left front toe board and new metal welded in. 
Tom has made new floor pieces for the right rear floor under the back seat. He is welding them in now. 
Well Jennifer that rusty old rear body panel is gone. 
Cutting the trunk floor out. 
Removing the trunk floor. 
This is thr rear panel out of the parts car. Its not the greatest but its the best we could find. We can rebuild it. The one in the car was not even rebuildable. 
George you might want to catch her!!!!! 
The trunk floor is out. The frame rails have to be sandblasted and coated with epoxy before we can install the new trunk floor. See all that surface rust inside the rails? Its got to go. 
Well Jennifer here is your rear body panel believe it or not. No one makes rear body panel pieces for a 1980 Firebird. Finding a rust free parts car that someone will let you cut up is impossible. The rear body panels in this car are rebuildable so we are going to use them. 
The inside of the right rear frame rail has been sandblasted. 
Rust to be repaired in the left rear frame spring shackle mount hole. 
Jim is repairing the rust on the upper part of the left rear frame rail. 
Some rust to be repaired on the right frame rail at the rear spring shackle mount hole. 
The rusty metal has been removed from around all the frame rail shackle mount holes. 
Once the rusty metal was removed from around the shackle mount holes the area was ground and sandblasted. 
Now all these spots on the rear rails can be rebuilt. 
The new trunk floor did not come with the gas tank support rails so the originals were cut off the old trunk floor and reworked and sandblasted. 
We sandblasted all that surface rust from the inside of the rear rails. The used rear body panel was also sandblasted to be rebuilt. 
The left rear frame rail has been sandblasted on the inside. There is a little rust on the top of the rail to be rebuilt. 
Rust has been cut out of the upper portion of the left rear frame rail. 
Both rear frame rails are showing some rust around the rear spring shackle mounting holes. 
Rebuilding the inner part of the rear body panel. 
Rebuilding the outer part of the rear body panel. 
Tom welding on the rear body panel. 
Epoxy was sprayed on the inside of both rear frame rails. This will prevent that rust issue from coming back down the road. 
The trunk opening weatherstrip lip on the top of the rear body panel has been rebuilt. 
Epoxy has been sprayed inside the left frame rail. 
The new trunk floor did not come with the gas tank support bars so these ones were cut off the original floor and reworked. They have been sandblasted and sprayed with epoxy before getting welded on the new trunk floor.  
Building the new pieces for the side of the rear frame rails around the spring mount. These outer tabs were rusty on all the rails. 
The replacement trunk floor is not complete. It does not go all the way forward. It is basically a patch panel to go over the outer part of the existing floor so we got to build the rest of it. This is the front part being built. They just don't make much for a 1980 Firebird. 
Epoxy has been sprayed inside the right rear frame rail. 
Its not that big of deal adding the pieces to the floor. It just would have been alot faster if they would build a complete floor like they do for the 67, 68, and 69 camaro and firebird.  
This shows more areas on the new trunk floor that have to be built. 
The replacement trunk floor is not a complete piece. This piece is designed to be laid over an existing floor that is just rusted in the center. Its all we could get. We got to add to the edges to build the rest of it. 
Since the trunk floor did not come as a complete replacement panel the drop off that weld to the wheeltubs have to be made. 
Tom is building the torque boxes that go inside the rear part of the trunk at the bumper mount points. 
The inner part of the rear body panel has been rebuilt.I got to hand it to Tom on this one. This was a bit of a job here. I wish they would reproduce these parts.  
Tom is welding on the trunk floor. 
The rear frame horns by the spring shackle mounts have been rebuilt. 
Doing a little welding undernieth on the trunk floor. 
The trunk floor is welded to the right frame rail. 
The right shock tower has been fabricated and welded in. 
One trunk floor installed. 
The new right trunk floor drop off has been welded in. 
The inner part of the rear body panel has been rebuilt and sprayed with epoxy. 
The outer part of the rear body panel has been sprayed with epoxy. 
The new left trunk floor drop off has been welded in. 
The new left shock tower has been fabricated and welded in. 
Jim is welding the trunk floor in. 
The trunk floor is welded to the left frame rail. Of course all the welds have to be ground yet. The lower gas tank support rails will get welded in with the rear body panel. 
The right torque box has been made and welded to the trunk floor. 
Welding the gas tank braces to the bottom of the trunk floor. 
The gas tank braces have been welded to the trunk floor. 
The gas tunnel piece was made and welded into the new trunk floor. The trunk floor did not come with the tunnel. It was too short so This piece has to be made. 
The new left torque box has been made and welded to the trunk floor. 
Jim has screwd the rear body panel in place. Now he has fit the tailights, trunk, and bumper to do the final adjustments before welding it in. 
Fitting the rear body panel. 
Fitting the trunk to the rear body panel. I think this picture is out of order. I don't type well either but you get the idea. 
Welding the rear body panel in. 
The new right front floor pan has been welded in. 
The right front floor pan has been cut out and the floor rail cleaned up and sprayed with Variprime. 
The left front floor pan has been cut out. The floor rail has been cleaned up and sprayed with Variprime. 
Some of the rusty right rear floor has been welded up. 
Rust has been cut out from the right rear seat pocket. 
More of the rt rear floor has been welded up. 
Rust cut out of the right rear floor. 
Some of the rust in the right rear floor has been cut out, new metal made and welded back in. 
Rust cut out from below where the right rear seat goes. 
Rust has been welded up in the right rear seat pocket. 
Rust has been cut out of the right rear floor. 
Starting to cut out the small rust areas in the rear floor pans and make new pieces and weld in. This is the right side. 
Both front floor pans have been replaced. Now its time to take care of the small rust areas in the rear floor pans. 
The left front floor pan has been welded in. 
Rust repair on the right rear floor. 
The left rocker has been cut off. 
Tom found a little more rust in the left wheeltub. 
The left door has been fit back on the car. This is done so the new rocker panel and new 1/4 panel can be lined up. 
We got a good used left fender. The scoop hole has to be welded up but its a good rust free fender. 
The lead wes melted out of the left sail panel . There is some rust here to be repaired. 
We got a good used right fendr off the same car. Both fenders are rust free and pretty strait. The scoop hole has to be welded up. 
Welding the left rocker on. 
Repairing the rust in the left door post inner structure behind the 1/4 panel. 
To get the left 1/4 lined up the lights and rear bumper will be fitted. The rear bumper has been removed fropm the support and will be slid on after the 1/4 has been test fit. 
Fitting the left rocker. 
Rust in the left sail panel. 
Fitting the trunk and rear trunk filler. 
New tabs had to be made for the trunk to back glass filler panel. 
The left 1/4 is getting fitted and welded on. 
The left tailight opening has been built. 
Building the left tailight opening. These new 1/4s do not come complete. they are just an outer skin so the edges have to be built. Its like the trunk floor was. Thats all you can get for this car though. 
The left 1/4 to rocker is welded. 
The top of the left 1/4 is welded on. 
The left 1/4 has been welded to the inner trunk drop off. 
The left 1/4 does not come with the taillight opening. Tom has to build this part. 
The rust has been repaired in the left sail panel. 
The right rocker is getting replaced but the rust in the right door jam will be cut out and new metal made to fit and welded in. 
The left 1/4 has been welded on and the welds ground down at the dooropening. 
The stress cracks in the left door striker mounting area in the jam have been welded. 
Welding the right rocker on. 
Welding the right rocker on. 
The rust has been repaired in the right rear door jam. 
The right rocker has been removed and the inner structure cleaned up and sprayed with Variprime. 
Thr right door has been fit on the car and the right 1/4 has been cut off and the new one is getting trimmed to fit. 
The left rocker is on and the welds have been ground down. 
The left 1/4 is on. 
Fitting the right 1/4 panel. 
The right 1/4 has been welded on. The welds can be ground down. Then all the welds will be sandblasted and covered with 3m Panel Adhesive. 
The doors have been removed and now we got to take a look at how bad this rust is. 
The latches were removed from the doors. All other hardware was removed along time ago. Now the inside of the door shells will be blasted to see how bad the rust is. 
Sandblasting the welds. 
Its showing some rust in the lower pinchweld. Thats common. 
Now that the door shells have been sandblasted we can really see how bad the rust is. Its really not bad. These doors are in way better shape than originally thought. 
We have moved the body outside so the welds on the 1/4 panels, rockers, trunk floor and wheeltubs can be sandblasted. 
Blasting the welds in the trunk. 

Some more rust in the doors.

 
Sandblasting has revealed the door rust. Its not that bad. 
Sandblasting the welds on the 1/4 panels and wheeltubs. 
Rust cut out of the front of one of the doors. 

We always put panel adhesive over the welded areas. It is an extra step we go through to help insure that rust does not become an issue for your grandkids Jen.

 
The panel adhesive is put over the welded floor seams on top and bottom. Now water or moisture can ever get to the welds now. 
The welds on the floors were ground down and cleaned. Then 3M panel adhesive was put over the welded areas. This will greatly help to seal and waterproof the welded areas. 
Tom has cut rust out of the lower front part of one of the doors. 
Back in the day someone hacked the inside of the doors up for speakers. that has been repaired. 
Rust welded up on one of the doors. 
The rust has been repaired on the lower lip of one of the doors. 
Rust has been cut out and new metal made and welded in on the lower front of one of the doors. 
The rust has been repaired on this part of one of the doors. The old piece that was removed is laying there. 
The rust has been cut out of the trunklid. The trunklid was stripped and the inside is getting sandblasted. 
The trunk rust was cut out sand then sandblasted to clean up the inside. 
Some of the door rust has been repaired.  
Rust has been cut out and a new piece made and welded into the front of one door. 
Panel adhesive on the left trunkjam welds. 
Once the rust was repaired in the doors they were stripped of all the old paint and bodyfiller. Then all the dents were pulled and worked out. Now the welded areas will be sandblasted. 
The welds on the body have been sandblasted. Now Tom is putting 3m Panel adhesive over all the welded areas on the1/4 panels, wheeltubs, and rockers. 
The trunk rust has been cut out and new metal welded in. the welds were ground down and sandblasted and covered with panel adhesive. 
Panel adhesive on the door welds. 
After the welds on the doors were sandblasted 3M panel adhesive was put over them. 
Panel adhesive on the right 1/4 and sail panel welds. 
Panel adhesive on the right 1/4 wheeltub front and lip welds. 
panel adhesive on the left rear floor. 
Panel adhesive on the left 1/4 and sail panel welds. 
Panel adhesive on the rocker pinchwelds.  
Panel adhesive on the right rear floor. 
Panel adhesive on the right rocker welds. 
Panel adhesive on the right trunk jam and rear 1/4 welds. 
Panel adhesive in the wheeltub welds and 1/4 panel to wheeltub welds. 
Panel adhesive on the windshield post welds. 
Panel adhesive on the left rocker welds. 
Panel adhesive on the left trunk jam and rear part of the 1/4. 
Panel adhesive on the door welds. 
The trunkfloors have been sanded and are ready to epoxy. 
The panel adhesive is getting sanded down. 
The doors and trunk are ready to epoxy inside and out. 
The outside of the doors are ready to epoxy. 
The panel adhesive has been sanded down on the body, wheeltubs, and floorpans. Now its ready to blow off, wipe down and spray with epoxy.  
This stuff is nasty. I'm out of here. Tom can handle it. 
The trunklid and car body are ready for epoxy. 
The panel adhesive has been sanded down and the floors are ready to epoxy. 
Tom is spraying epoxy on the body. 
Epoxy on the body. 
Epoxy on the floors. 
Once the epoxy dries it will be sanded down and then the bodywork will begin. Its a car again Jen. 
The door hinges have been sandblasted and rebuilt with new pins and bushings. 
Epoxy in the trunkfloor. 
The body has been sprayed with epoxy. 
The doors and trunk have been sprayed with epoxy on both sides. 
The panel adhesive was sanded down in the wheeltubs and they were sprayed with epoxy too. 
The trunk floor has been sprayed with epoxy. 
Epoxy on the trunk floor. 
The doors have been sprayed with epoxy. 
The epoxy has been sanded down and the bodywork is starting on the car. 
Bodyworking the left 1/4. 
Tom has sanded down the epoxy on the right 1/4 panel and is getting ready to start the bodywork on it. 
The door hinges have been sprayed with epoxy. 
Tom is sanding on the left 1/4. 

Starting the bodywork on the right 1/4.

 

The epoxy has been sanded down on the trunk lid and the bodywork has started.

 
Building the mounting plates for the rear bumper ends. the old ones were shot. 
We have 2 complete spoiler sets for the back and are using the best pieces out of the 2 sets. The studs are getting glued back in the center spoiler. 
The spoiler side pieces did not have mounting studs on the bottom originally but they never fit good either. Tom is making mounting studs for them.This will help them fit alot better. 
Bodyworking the roof. 
Bodyworking the rockers and door jams. 
Tom has started the bodywork on the doors. 
Bodyworking the right side. 
Tom is bodyworking on the 1/4 panel. 
Bodyworking the left side. 
Well its ready for primer. 
The body has been wiped down with cleaner and is getting sprayed with epoxy. 
The epoxy has dried and the body was sprayed with primer. 
The body and doors and trunklid are ready to prime. 
In primer. 
In Primer. 
In primer. 
Its in primer. 
Jim is blocking primer on the roof. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the remaining bare metal on the floor pans and now brushable seamsealer is being put over the seams. 
Jim is blocking out primer on the right door. 
Jim is blocking primer on the left door. 
I am blocking the primer on the trunklid. 
Well its back on the spinner. 
I am blocking primer on the right 1/4. 
Now that the car can be turned on its side again, Tom finished the welding on the bottom of the frame rails and epoxied them. 
The front spring perches were fit into the new rebuilt frame rails. The holes were drilled and the nuts welded in place. Then the rails were coated with epoxy. 
The rear trunk filler panel has been sandblasted and can be epoxied and bodyworked. 
The lip around the bottom of the 1/4 panels has been marked and will be ground down so it is even all the way around the car. 
Now that we can get to the bottom the panel adhesive can be sanded down and the remaining bare spots epoxied. 
The inner lip on the replacement 1/4 panels is not even all the way around. Now that the car is back on the roticery this can be trimmed up. 
Jim is grinding the lip down on the 1/4 panels to make them all even all the way around the car. 
Now that the car can be flipped on its side the bottom of the rockers and the tranny hump and cowl anf firewall areas can be worked. 
The rear trunk filler was sandblasted, epoxied and is getting bodyworked. 
Well the body has been all blocked out and the bare metal and filler spots have been sprayed with epoxy. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the trunk filler. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the bare metal and filler spots. 
Epoxy has been sprayed over the bare metal and filler spots. 
The trunk filler has been primed. 
It has been reprimed.  
I am spraying primer on it again!  
The left side has been reprimed. We are going to let the primer cure out good. We have a few other projects to get done so for now we are putting this one on hold. 
The left side has been reprimed.  
The trunklid and roof have been reprimed.  
The roof, trunklid, and right 1/4 are getting blocked. 
The primer on the right door and rocker are getting blocked. 
The body is not far from being ready for paint. A few areas will be blocked and reprimed. 
The body has been reprimed. 
The right side reprimed. 
The epoxy has cured out and now I am repriming the entire car body. 
The left rocker, door, and 1/4 bodyline, left sail panel and left side of the roof have been blocked. Epoxy has been sprayed on the sandthrough areas and they are ready to reprime. 
The fenders we are using had spoilers on the front so these holes will be welded up on both fenders. 
These fenders had the side scoops in them. these will be removed. 
The right rocker, right door bodyline, right sail panel, roof, and right 1/4 bodylines have been blocked. Epoxy has been sprayed on the sandthrough spots. 
The left side has been primed along with the roof. 
The scoops have been removed from both fenders. 
The front spoiler mounting holes have been welded up in both fenders. The welds have been ground and sandblasted. 
Both fender scoops have been weled up. The welds have been ground and sandblasted. 
The right side and roof has been reprimed. 
The right front wheeltub has some rust. We have two of these tubs but the other is has a big hole in it where someone cut to access the heater box. We will cut the part out of that tub to weld into this one. 
Somewhere along the line somone had way too long of air cleaner stud coming out the carb. There are a couple of holes poked in the hood. 
3m panel adhesive has been put over all welded areas on the fenders inside and out.  
The rust has been cut out and once it has been repaired all this old undercoat can be melted out before sandblasting the wheeltubs. 
The holes in the center of the hood have been welded up. 
The body, doors, and trunk lid are ready for the paint shop!!! We still have some work to do undernieth depending on what rear suspension system will be going in it. Then the bottom will be sprayed with 3M Bodyshutz and it will be time to come off the roticery. 
The battery tray has been blasted. 
The inner sheetmetal part of the hood has been stripped with a stripping wheel so as not to warp it. 
The battery tray has been epoxied. 
Stripping the top of the hood. 
When the panel adhesive cures out it will be sanded down. Then the rest of the fenders can be stripped. 
The braces inside the fenders will be removed so we can take care of any rust that is hiding behind them. The inside of the fenders are getting stripped and the structure part will be blasted. 
The rear fender braces have been removed. The rust has been cut out of them. They will be repaired and epoxied before they are put back in. 
The rear spoiler pieces have been stripped. 
The inside of the right fender has been stripped and blasted. 
The fender braces have been repaired. 
The inside of the left fender has been stripped and blasted. Had the rear brace not been removed none of what is behind it could have been cleaned up. 
Sanding down the panel adhesive and stripping the fenders before blasting the structure. 
The front fender braces have been sandblasted. 
Cardboard has been cut and put in place so the inner hood structure can be sandblasted with out warping the top sheetmetal. 
The wheeltub has been welded up with a piece cut out of the other junk one. 
The inner hood structure has been sandblasted. 
After sandblasting some rust appeared on the hood sides. 
One of the mounting holes is tore in one of the bumpers. 
We got the bumpers out to have a look. they have some cracks in them. 
Welding up the left wheeltub. 
The rust has been cut out of the left wheeltub and a new piece has been cut to be welded in. 
The wheeltubs have been blasted and panel adhesive put over the welded areas. 
After all the undercoat was removed and the wheeltubs blasted a small area of rust showed up on the left wheeltub. 
Welding up the hood rust. 
New pieces were made and are being welded into the hood. 
The rust has been cut out of one side of the hood. 
Sandblasting the front wheeltubs inside and out. 
Cutting the rust out of the hood. 
The front fender braces have been epoxied. 
The rust has been cut out of the other side of the hood. 
The corner of the front bumper is cracked up pretty good. new bumpers would not be a bad idea if we could find some good ones. That is the problem with this car finding good ones. I don't like aftermarket. 
The wheeltubs have been epoxied. 
The old factory glue that held the hood skin to the inner structure is bad so we are gluing it back together with panel adhesive. This is some great stuff. 
The rust on the side of the hood has been welded up, the welds were ground down, spot blasted and coated with panel adhesive. 
Bodyworking the bottom of the hood where the two holes wer poked through it. 
The spoiler pieces are getting sanded down and bodyworked. 

The epoxy was sanded on the hood. Then the hood was bodyworked and is now ready to prime.

 
The other side of the hood has been welded up and the welds ground, blasted and coated with panel adhesive. 
Some small pinhole rust showed up in the bottom of one fender after they were blasted. It has been cut out and new metal welded in. 
We have started stripping the paint off the rear bumper. I was going to have them soda blasted but they told me it would ruin these type of plastic bumpers. 
The rust repair on the left wheeltub has been welded, ground, blasted and is getting covered in panel adhesive. 
Both fender braces have been welded back in. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the bottom of the hood. 
The fender brace welds were spot blasted after being ground down. then 3m panel adhesive was put over the welds. 
The hood has been bodyworked and sprayed with epoxy. Once this dries it will be primed. 
The bottom of the hood is getting sprayed with primer. 
The hood has been primed. 
Blocking the primer on the center trunk spoiler. 
The center trunk spolier has been blocked and reprimed. 
The spoiler ends have been bodyworked ans are ready to prime. 
The lower rust repair on the fender was ground, spot blasted, panel adhesive put over the welds then it was sanded down after it cured out. The lower fender section has been sprayed with epoxy. 
Jim is spraying epoxy on the left fender. 
As soon as the epoxy dries the left fender will be primed. 
The primer on the hood has been blocked down and epoxy has been sprayed on the sandthrough areas. When the epoxy dries the hood will be reprimed. 
A small rust spot in the wheeltub mounting point will be cut out and replace with a piece from one of the spare wheeltubs we have. 
The left fender is ready to prime. 
The spoiler ends are in primer. 
The panel adhesive was sanded down on the fender braces and they were coated with epoxy. 
Bodyworking the left fender. A thin skim coat of filler over the entire piece takes care of the small waves in the metal. 
The hood was reprimed and now the bodyline on the hood has been blocked and the center section will get reprimed. Then the hood is ready for the paintshop. 
The left fender has been blocked and reprimed. 
The left fender is in primer. 
The right fender has been bodyworked and is getting sprayed with epoxy. 
Bodyworking the wheeltub. 
The corner of the wheeltub has had the rust removed and a piece from one of the other wheeltubs has been cut to replace it. 
The wheeltub corner has been repaired. 
The wheeltubs have been blocked and are ready to epoxy and reprime. 
The wheeltub corner has been repaired. 
The shock mount on the right side was rusted out. It is getting rebuilt. 
The right fender has been reprimed and is ready to fit on the car. 
The left fender has been blocked and epoxy sprayed over the sandthrough areas. 
The right fender has been primed. 
Epoxy on the right fender after it has been bodyworked. 
The center body line has been reprimed on the hood and its ready for the paint shop. 
The undercoat has been stripped off the body plugs and they are ready to glue into the floor. 
The left fender has been reprimed. They are ready to fit on the car now. 
The wheeltubs have been primed and are ready to be fit on the car. 
The rusty shock mount has been welded up. 
We got to mock up the rear suspension before we can finish the bottom of the car. The springs are getting ready to go in. 
The lower rear spring plated bend when the U bolts are tightened. We are going to rework these so this does not happen.  
The spring plates bend when the U bolts are tightened. we are going to straiten these out and weld gussets on them so this wont happen. 
Welding the gussets on the rear spring plates. 
The frame rail holes have been drilled for the swaybar. 
Drilling the frame rails for the sway bar. 
Once this is all fit and removed the rear springs can be painted. There are some brackets and U bolts that will be powdercoated.  
The rear end is getting fit into the car. We have to do this to mount the sway bar brackets to the frame rails. This has to be done now. Once it all is mocked up it can come back out and the bottom of the car can be finished. 
The sway bar brackets have to be drilled out to 1/2 inch. Not sure why Hotchkins did not do that but the instructions said to do it. 

The outer brackets for the rear sway bar have been fit. There is not need for these to ever be removed so we are going to weld these in place while the rest of the welding is finished up on the bottom of the car.

 
The rear sway bar has been fit. 
The rear sway bar side mounts have been fit. 
The rear spring plated have been strengthened. They do not bend when tightening the U bolts now. These pieces will be powdercoated. 
It all fits. Now it will all be removed and the bottom of the car body can be finished up. 
The frame rails have been reshaped on the corner to allow clearance for the swaybar. 
Josh is finishing up the welding on the bottom frame rails, sway bar brackets and front spring pockets. 
Both spring perches for the front of the rear leaf springs have been repaired. These will be powdercoated. 
The front spring perch pockets are getting finished up. 
The sway bar plates are getting welded into the frame rails while we finish up the rest of the welding under the car. 
The spring perches for the front of the rear leaf springs were rusted out. New ones are at least 2 months out so we repaired the originals. 
One of the wheeltubs was badly smashed years ago in a wreck. We hammered it out before putting the 1/4 on but it needs some roughin bodywork before the bodyshutz goes on. 
The wheeltubs are going to need some rough in work with filler before the bodyshutz goes on so the car has been flipped upside down to do this. 
The welding is done on the bottom of the car now. The frame rails are getting a rough in with filler before the bottom gets bodyshutz on it. 

Epoxy has been sprayed over the welds and bodyworked areas. Now the rest of the seamsealer can be put on the bottom of the car. Then the 3M Bodyshutz will be sprayed on and then it will be ready to come off the spinner!

 
The original floor plugs have been stripped and are getting sprayed with epoxy. These will be put back in the floor when we finish up the seamsealing. 
Seamsealing the bottom of the car. Some of this had already been done but we could not do it all until we had the rear end mocked up and the welding completed. 

The rest of the seamsealer can now be put on the bottom of the car. Its masked off to do that now.

 
The seamsealer is on the bottom of the body. 
The bottom of the car has now been seamsealed the rest of the way. 
The entire body has been masked off to prevent the bodyshutz overspray from getting on the rest of the car. 

Now the car can be masked and bodyshutz sprayed on the bottom.

 
3M Bodyshutz has been sprayed on the bottom of the car body. This will dry overnight and a second coat will be sprayed on in the morning. 
We are going to take the radiator support apart so it can be blasted. 
This radiator support has been crashed in the past. We are going to have to do some straitening and welding on it. Its a solid piece though with no rust. 
The hood hinges and one small rad. supt bracket have been blasted. 
The radiator support has been sandblasted. 
The headlight mounting panel and the horn mounting bracket have been sandblasted. 
The radiator support has been sprayed with epoxy. 
The headlight mounting panle and the horn brace have been epoxied. 
The hood hinges and one small rad supt bracket have been epoxied and primed. 
Some busted welds on the radiator support. 
The new rear leaf springs come with a semigloss rattle can finish thats just not very good. We are going to blast them, epoxy and prime them.  
The hood has been guidecoated and is getting blocked again. The tape is to keep the center bodyline perfectly strait while block sanding . 
The radiator support has some broken welds and damage from a prior crash. Its a solid rust free piece so we are going to fix it.  
Here is an old repair on the radiator support. we are going to clean this all up. 
The top of the support will show once the car is done so we are going to straiten out the dents. the rest of the support has been repaired. 
Prior repairs on the radiator support. This will be fixed. Its really not a bad piece. It just needs a little straitening and welding. 
This damage was caused when the fender got hit. It pushed this all back. This will get straitened out and rewelded. 
Here is another old repair on the radiator support. This car got hit pretty good in the front at one time. 
The top of the radiator support has been bodyworked, primed, and blocked . Its ready to reprime. 
The front subframe needs a little work around one of the body mounting points. There are some small issues up front at the bumper mounting points too. Nothing major. 
Rewelding on the radiator support. 
The bottom of the radiator support was pushed way up from hitting a ditch or something so we are straitening that back out. 
The leaf springs have been blasted. Once they are epoxied and primed they will go to the paint shop. There they will be wetsanded and sprayed black and clearcoated. 
The rear U bolts, washers and nuts have been sandblasted. 
The subframe has been repaired. As soon as we get the new suspension pieces here we can tear this thing down and get it powdercoated. 
The radiator support has been repaired and is ready for the paint shop. 
Josh is removing the rear spoilers so he can block the back of the body with 320 grit. The dark stuff you see is powder guide coat. That helps you see any minor imperfections or scratches as you are sanding. 
The hood is getting reprimed and the body is about to get blocked with 320 grit sandpaper. This will be the final blocking before it is ready  to wetsand for paint. 
Wetsanding the rear leaf springs. 
Blocking these cars first with 320 grit makes the wetsanding  for paint go alot faster. This gets it strait and level and then we will wetblock it again with 400 grit. This attention to detail is what makes the car strait! 
The rear U bolts and hardware have been painted black and cleared. 
Josh applies the guide coat ans block sands until it is gone. Then he puts another guide coat on and sands each panel again with 320 grit. Once the entire body is done and the rest of the seamsealing is done it can go on the ground. 
Seamsealer on the cowl sides and lower firewall. 
This seamsealing will be alot easier with the car still on the spinner. Once on the ground we will finish up the areas that we can not do yet. 
There is some seamsealing on the cowl and firwewall that needs to be done still. It is getting masked off to do that. 
The rear springs have been painted black and cleared. 
This seamsealer can now be primed. 
Installing the rear suspension.  
The rear suspension has been installed. 

The car is now coming off the roticery!!!!

 

Its on the ground.

 
The next step is to clean up the areas where the roticery mounted and get the rest of the seamsealer on the firewall and the inside of the car. Then we can start fitting the front end. 
Seamsealing the trunk weatherstrip channel. 
Seamsealing inside the trunk. 
Seamsealing inside the trunk floor and wheeltubs. 
Seamsealing the inside floors, windshield posts, roof rails, door pillars, etc. 
The reast of the seamsealing can be done now that the car is back on the ground. This is the inside rear. 
The front bumper has been stripped. 
Stripping the rear bumper. 
The front bumper license plate holes are going to be filled. 
Epoxy has been sprayed over all the seamsealer. 
Epoxy has been sprayed over all the seamsealer. 
We have Jens original doors and hood but the fenders and front bumper are off two different parts cars. We need to bolt this all together and make it all line up before we start painting. We are starting to fit the fenders. 
3M Panel adhesive is being used to fill the license plate mounting bracket holes in the front bumper. 
Josh is blocking the primer on the hood. 
We are bodyworking the bottom of the trunklid. 
The bumpers are ready for epoxy and primer. 
The bumpers have been primed. 
The bottom of the trunklid is ready to prime. 
The fenders have both been fit to the doors. 
The front bumper upper retaining strap is getting stripped and it will be epoxied. 
Fitting the right wheeltub. This car is real close to going to the paint shop. As soon as it does the front clip will come apart and the subframe will be powdercoated and the new suspension installed. While that is being done we can start painting the car. 

We are fitting the front bumper to the fenders. We had to order new hood hinges and we are waiting on those. We will be needing a complete bolt and fastener kit for this car as well. All the J-clips and bolts are rusted and wore out.

 
The bottom of the trunklid has been primed and blocked down. The seamsealer has been put on it and its ready to reprime. 
The rear bumper has been blocked and is ready to reprime.  
We are fitting the wheeltubs now. The wheeltubs are original but this car was wrecked in the front too.The fenders are not the original ones. After its painted is not the time to find out you got to do some shaping and bending to fit them together.  
The left wheeltub has been fit to the fender. Its a good thing we fit them. The tubs had to be reshaped a little. 
The rear bumper has been reprimed. 
The left wheeltub fits. 
The right wheeltub fits. 
The bottom of the trunklid is getting epoxied and primed and it will be ready for paint. 
The hood has been blocked and wiped down with cleaner its ready to reprime. 
The left mirror has been taken apart and stripped. 
Now that the inside of the trunk is done the spoilers were blocked and reprimed and reinstalled to test fit. We done some adjustments and they line up good now. 
The rear bumper has been blocked again and is ready to reprime. 
Stripping the bezels for the 4 sidemarker lights. 
The right mirror has been taken apart and is getting stripped. 
Epoxy has been sprayed over the sandthrough areas on the hood. When this dries the hood will be reprimed. 
Both mirrors have been epoxied and primed. 
The rear trunk filler panel has been reprimed and fit. 
The hood has been reprimed and is ready to block with 320 grit before its wetsanded for paint. 
The sidemarker light bezels are getting epoxied and primed. 
Epoxy has been sprayed on the sandthrough areas. Once this dries the bumper will be reprimed and then it will be ready for the paint shop. 
Everything on the back of the car has been fit together and that part is all ready for the paint shop. 
We fit the hood with the original hinges and they are wore out. Classic Industries sent us these new hinges. They have been sanded and are ready for epoxy and primer. 
The new hood hinges have been epoxied and primed. Now we have to install the springs. Can you guess how thats done without bending the new hinge?? 
We use a cherry picker to stretch the hood hinge out enough to install it. 
The right fender has been blocked and the front bumper has been blocked. 
The spring has been stretched out and now the hinge can be installed on the spring. Once thats done we have to take a cutoff wheel and cut the last link in the chain to remove it because its trapped behind the spring.  
The left fender has been blocked and the bumper is being removed to prime. 
The left fender has been masked up and wiped down with cleaner. Its ready for epoxy and primer. 
The front bumper has been blocked and removed. Its ready to spot epoxy and reprime. 
The right fender has been masked up and wiped down with cleaner and its ready to reprime. 
The left fender has been reprimed. 
The front bumper has been reprimed. 
The right fender has been reprimed. 
The left fender has been blocked again. This is where attention to detail comes in. Most places skimp here. This is what makes the car strait.  
While we were fitting the front bumper we noticed the radiator center support brace was still bent from the crash years ago. That was not allowing a proper bumper to hood gap. We are fixing that here. 
The right fender has been blocked again. 
The front bumper has been blocked again and is ready to reprime. 
Epoxy has been sprayed over the sand through areas on the right fender. 
Epoxy has been sprayed over the sand through areas on the left fender. 
Epoxy has been sprayed over the sand through areas. 
The left fender has been reprimed. 
The front bumper has been reprimed. 
The right fender has been reprimed. 
The car is getting moved to the paint shop. I am blowing the dust out of it. 


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